I remind everyone that this topic is about five or six years old. Probably worthwhile to start a new one.

It sounds to me like the temperature sensor (transducer) might be malfunctioning because it isn't turning-off the compressor at its low limit of 24°F. Is the sensor itself making good contact with the evaporator fins? Recommend looking at that possibility first.

What is the make, model, year, and engine size of your vehicle? Also, what does the posted photo show? It looks like a TXV, but I can't be sure.

Yes, the Forester was wrecked in the front end. The original condenser was replaced with the one that's on it now, but the compressor is apparently on its way out. Found black gunk in the receiver/drier, as well as down where those nipples fit into the R/D. Looks like you're facing replacement of t...

It's impossible to get 45°F air out of the center dash vents with a low-side reading of 100 PSI. Are you sure your Manifold Gauge Set is registering the correct low-side pressure? For reference, your car's A/C specifications are as follows: 19 ounces net weight of R-134a, and 5.5 fluid ounces of PAG...

... the car only has 65,000mi on it, I was just thinking maybe the compressor got hurt from heavily overcharging it a few times, it worked fine prior to the Interchiller installation. It's possible that the control valve or a reed valve sustained damage from the overcharge. I was doing some researc...

What connected to those two nipples, and how did they attach? Might the fittings on the condenser side of the R/D be the peanut style that attach with individual offset bolts, or studs and nuts? Regardless, instead of trying to figure out this mystery, I would simply purchase a new condenser and R/D...

I did the usual checking for enough refrigerant charge and monitoring if the clutch was engaged/staying engaged and all is ok in that department. Wondering how you checked for the proper refrigerant amount, which can't be "gauged" by pressures. For reference, the A/C specifications that I...

Could a low charge cause a frosty POA valve? It's possible. However, if the A/C system hasn't run for a few years—and given the age of the car—testing the POA valve's pressure setting is advisable. Should you decide to convert from R-12 to R-134a refrigerant, the POA valve will also need to be re-c...

What I am seeing is a consistently low high side pressure reading, from when the car is off to when its running, would that point to the compressor or blockage or both or something else? The cabin AC does work better when the temperature is cooler out like tonight it is 67deg right now and it got c...