Good evening. My name is Eddie. I’m working on my 1978 F150 AC. I installed a new Classic Auto Air unit in my truck about a year ago. The temperature at my center vent varies 15 to 20 degrees as I’m driving on these hot days. My temperature goes down to 37 and up to 57 over and over. I just fixed a leaking condenser line and recharged it a week ago. I vacuumed the unit down and put 24 ounces of R134 into it. The guages read 35-40 low side and 275 high side with ambient temperature around 90 degrees. The system cools good but climbs to 55-60 degrees while the compressor is off. I’ve checked my water valve. Bypassed the heater hoses. I lifted the thermostat tube about an inch from inside the case. Monitored my engine water temperature. I’ve contacted the tech support at CAA for advice.
This is a OEM truck with no bell or whistles. The only thing that’s not stock is the CAA air conditioner unit. It has performed this way since day one of use.
I will gladly consider any ideas that would clear this up for me. Thanks in advance for the advice.
1978 F150 output temperature variation
Re: 1978 F150 output temperature variation
Disclaimer: I'm not an AC professional.
If my truck, I'd test the fan clutch first.
Second, when the cooling stops, I'd pull over immediately, leave engine and AC switched on, and visually check if the AC compressor drive plate (the center disc) is engaged, turning at the same speed as the outer AC clutch pulley and belt. You might need Mr. Flashlight to see this. If the center drive plate isn't turning at that speed, USE CAUTION (beware belts and radiator fan) and tap on the drive plate with a broom handle, see if the AC clutch suddenly engages. An alternative to this would be to have a 12 volt test light or multimeter immediately available and see if the AC clutch wire is getting positive voltage while the drive plate is not spinning properly.
I experienced the second one almost a decade ago on my 1998 Frontier, the AC clutch "gap" had increased/worn over the years. The fix was to remove one AC clutch shim to decrease the gap to within specifications, no issue since. Took me 15 minutes and I didn't even need to remove the AC drive belt. See post #73 on this link to read and see what fixed mine. https://www.clubfrontier.org/threads/19 ... lQ#replies
If my truck, I'd test the fan clutch first.
Second, when the cooling stops, I'd pull over immediately, leave engine and AC switched on, and visually check if the AC compressor drive plate (the center disc) is engaged, turning at the same speed as the outer AC clutch pulley and belt. You might need Mr. Flashlight to see this. If the center drive plate isn't turning at that speed, USE CAUTION (beware belts and radiator fan) and tap on the drive plate with a broom handle, see if the AC clutch suddenly engages. An alternative to this would be to have a 12 volt test light or multimeter immediately available and see if the AC clutch wire is getting positive voltage while the drive plate is not spinning properly.
I experienced the second one almost a decade ago on my 1998 Frontier, the AC clutch "gap" had increased/worn over the years. The fix was to remove one AC clutch shim to decrease the gap to within specifications, no issue since. Took me 15 minutes and I didn't even need to remove the AC drive belt. See post #73 on this link to read and see what fixed mine. https://www.clubfrontier.org/threads/19 ... lQ#replies