Choosing the right condenser for a custom AC sistema.

[Legitness211]

Hello, I Hope you are doing well.

Long story short, my condenser got damaged in a crash, so I need to get a new one, but here is the thing: It is a custom system, with a chinesse 508 compressor, evaporator that fits in the evap box of a Civic 1990, custom AC lines, TXV like the one that has a little sensing copper tube attached on one side, and a universal condenser, It is about 11x30 inches, a little bit more I guess. The efficiency of the system is ok, but It could be better, and the big challenge for me is to find the correct amount of r134 since It is a custom system, but that's not the point.

So I was wondering if It would be a good idea to buy the same size, or I would get a better performance if I get a smaller condenser, since the original condenser of my car is much smaller. If that would be the case, which size de you recomend for my system.

By the way, I have a friend that fixed an AC line on his car without crimping, just with some metal clamps, like the ones that have a wormgear and a bolt, is that really safe?, I feel like if that thing is gonna blow up haha.

[Tim]

Back when AMA used to build Aftermarket AC Systems. We used this condenser.

SF12-0439S

[andrew vanis]

So I was wondering if It would be a good idea to buy the same size, or I would get a better performance if I get a smaller condenser, since the original condenser of my car is much smaller. If that would be the case, which size de you recommend for my system.

I have never heard/read that a condenser can be too big. Bigger is better what all sources say. Too small can be a problem but never too big was a problem. Often folks even put on a second condenser to increase condenser cooling. If condenser is bigger than needed the bottom holds more liquid at the bottom which just gets cooled more....would love to hear from the experts on this.

Unlikely your issue is too big condenser.

The nice thing about the same size like Tim posted is the mounting is already figured out.

[Tim]

Rule of thumb in Auto ac, use as much condenser as you can fit in a vehicle.

[bohica2xo]

Good airflow is the key.

I just finished up a 1965 Ranchero for a local. Not a lot of room in that radiator support, so the biggest parallel flow condenser that would fit was a 14" x !8"

The usual SD508 clone, and the vintage look under dash evaporator. Typical customer buys the lowest priced parts job.

I insisted on a 16 inch 6 blade nylon fan. He was trying to figure out an electric and I just said no. With everything put together it will blow a fender cover off of the fender when you rev the engine.

System will blow 42f on high blower at idle with 100f ambient temps. Driving around you can see the coolant temp reach the thermostat temperature and stop climbing.

.

[andrew vanis]

I insisted on a 16 inch 6 blade nylon fan. He was trying to figure out an electric and I just said no. With everything put together it will blow a fender cover off of the fender when you rev the engine.

What does all that mean?

Small cabin, that has to help.

[bohica2xo]

The 14 x 18 condenser is tiny. Without enough airflow it would never work well. Cabin size does not matter with the doors hanging open.

The belt drive fan moves enough air to make it all work well. the aftermarket fan moves far more air than the OEM 4 blade ever could.

Condensers need good airflow to move heat.

[andrew vanis]

Cabin size does not matter with the doors hanging open.

The belt drive fan moves enough air to make it all work well. the aftermarket fan moves far more air than the OEM 4 blade ever could.

Thank you

[Carguychris85]

I agree with sticking the largest condenser and most powerful fan on the thing you can run. My 97 Express van has a microtube parallel flow replacement for the OE condenser that fills the entire area in the core support. I have a 9 bladed duramax fan blade. Even with dual evaporators the pressures run low and the ac gets ice cold. With both blower fans on high speed in 110-115°F the vents will get down to ~30°F before the compressor cycles going down the road. At 2,000 rpm stationary with the engine fan moving airflow across the condenser alone it will get into the upper to mid 30s out of the vents. On a 100°F day the vents will get down to ~26°F before the compressor cycles. The interior started out just minutes before I made this video at 140°F. I have the LPCO switch adjusted to the ragged edge of freezing the evaporator core. When the compressor cycles the air warms up 5-10°F melting any ice buildup. At highway speeds the compressor cycles approximately every minute.

https://youtube.com/shorts/d_wkF47r5Kk? ... WImOZKD9_Q

I recently replaced a Sanden 4261 GM SD7H15 with a Four Seasons 88947 10 cylinder upgraded HT6 on the van. The Sanden really struggled in high heat and could not move enough refrigerant at lower rpm to cool well around town. A smaller Sanden is actually an ideal compressor for a system that is condenser challenged though as its limited volume will decrease the idle/low speed head pressure albeit with poorer idle performance. For me the Sanden was garbage on my system in 100°F and beyond and just did not give good performance with dual evaporators.

[tbirdtbird]

"like the ones that have a wormgear and a bolt, is that really safe"
No.