2016 Chevy Suburban AC Blowing warm air-HELP!!!

[bags284]

I have a 2016 Chevy suburban. The battery was weak and having issues starting and I had to call for a jump. The AC was working fine before the battery issues so Im not sure if these are even related. Anyways, I replaced the battery and now the AC will not blow cold. The clutch on the compressor engages when you turn on the AC Button, but the AC line under the hood does not get cold to the touch. It appears that the system is not circulating the refrigerant and the compressor is not actually coming on. Fuses all look good. I'm not sure if the AC relay switch may be faulty and causing this. I checked the refrigerant level and it is within specs.

This is my wifes only vehicle so I need to get it fixed asap as we live in Florida.

Before I take it into a repair shop, I was wondering if anyone has experienced this problem. I am worried about someone saying I have to replace the entire system and getting scammed. Thanks in advance for any feedback or suggestions.

[JohnHere]

If I understand correctly, you replaced the battery, now the A/C compressor won't engage. Before doing anything further, scan the vehicle for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's), or have it done. Clear the codes, and you'll probably find that the A/C system works again.

If it doesn't, the system might be low on refrigerant. The correct way (in fact, the *only* way) to determine whether a low-charge condition exists is to have the refrigerant recovered and weighed by a competent MVAC shop. If the charge is indeed low, you'll have to evacuate and re-charge the system to the exact refrigerant amount specified by the manufacturer.

The specs that I have for your vehicle follow, presuming both front and rear A/C.

If it has R-134a: 32.5 ounces net weight; if it has R-1234yf: 29.9 ounces net weight.

[Mark86]

Jump starting newer vehicles can cause all kinds of weird electrical issues. I would disconnect the battery overnight and reconnect in the morning. Turn the key on, but don't start the engine. Just let everything power up.

I find it unlikely the AC worked just fine then after the jump it doesn't. You say the ac clutch is engaged, if so it's pumping refrigerant.

[Cusser]

Before I take it into a repair shop, I was wondering if anyone has experienced this problem. I am worried about someone saying I have to replace the entire system and getting scammed. Thanks in advance for any feedback or suggestions.

We've had 1988, 1994, 2005, 2011, and now 2014 Suburbans and Yukons, and have not encountered a similar issue.

You state that the compressor is engaged: are you confirming by sight that the center drive plate of the compressor is turning at the same rate as the outer pulley and belt? I WOULD DEFINITELY CONFIRM THAT FIRST TO ELIMINATE AN ELECTRICAL ISSUE.

As to a shop in Florida, do NOT take to a dealer. Take to a local independent ASE-mechanic repair shop with really good ratings; or ask your friends and relatives for recommendations. Best could be an AC-only repair shop if there's one in your area.

Judging from my experience with the later SUVs, there's a small separate AC compressor drive belt on these, and access is better from underneath/passenger side after removing a protective panel.