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Thanks for the add and RV2 questions

Posted: Sun Sep 17, 2017 10:46 pm
by hitparader
Hello, thanks for adding me to this forum. I'm working on the restoration of a '70 Dodge (RV2 system) and ran across a few things I haven't seen before.

First, what is everyone's take on flushing suction-side mufflers? These RV2 systems have big inline mufflers on both the suction and discharge side. They seem totally unavailable as NOS or aftermarket pieces nowadays, but they are important for a factory-correct appearance in this resto. I know the discharge muffler should not be flushed, but what about the suction side?

My second questions is related, because during disassembly, I noted all lines were relatively clean except for the suction line between the evaporator and the muffler. I found a decent amount of dirty oil and rust in that line, but the line from the muffler out to the compressor was clean. All other lines were also clean with no rust and clear oil. Txv was clean, as was the compressor inlet screen. I haven't removed the evap yet and not looking forward to that. Any thoughts on why so much bad stuff in that one line? Thank you.

Re: Thanks for the add and RV2 questions

Posted: Mon Sep 18, 2017 8:36 am
by bohica2xo
Several ways to deal with this issue, but it depends on the actual muffler in question.

Mopar bought parts on the open market & used whatever was in hand - so if you cold post pics of the mufflers you are dealing with it would be a big help.

As far as the trash in that line, it has the lowest velocity in the system. Stuff tends to drop out there.

Re: Thanks for the add and RV2 questions

Posted: Mon Sep 18, 2017 10:36 am
by hitparader
Thank you for your fast reply. Here's a photo prior to disassembly. I didn't see any identifying marks on it but admittedly did not look closely.
IMG_3130.JPG
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Re: Thanks for the add and RV2 questions

Posted: Tue Sep 19, 2017 9:04 am
by bohica2xo
I usually gut those. It is easier on the ones with a tube that goes straight through - I bore the tube out & run a tube straight through the can & braze the tube to the ends of the can. It still looks OEM for a 100 point car - just a straight through tube in reality.

With the angle fitting on one end a little finesse should get the fitting off of the can. Then silver solder or braze a tube in to the angle block, run the tube through the bored out can, etc.

At least you have rubber lines. It is harder to duplicate the nylon with outer brain Mopar sometimes used.

Here are some tips for putting newer barrier hose on old fittings:
http://www.autoacforum.com/messageview. ... adid=14922

Good luck with your project

Re: Thanks for the add and RV2 questions

Posted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 12:00 am
by hitparader
Thank again, I never thought of doing it that way. I've never really understood what was inside those mufflers anyway. Now I can get maximum thump!

Re: Thanks for the add and RV2 questions

Posted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 10:11 am
by bohica2xo
Just getting ready to deal with this Mopar gem myself:

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Re: Thanks for the add and RV2 questions

Posted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 9:49 pm
by hitparader
Nice...from a smallblock car? B-body?

Re: Thanks for the add and RV2 questions

Posted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 10:34 am
by bohica2xo
'65 A body V8 car - Barracuda

I like my big headaches in small packages.

Re: Thanks for the add and RV2 questions

Posted: Tue Nov 14, 2017 12:37 am
by hitparader
Sorry to re-hydrate an old thread, but I did a little forensic dissection old RV2 I pulled out of this one - looks like someone left the a/c on when drag racing...
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Re: Thanks for the add and RV2 questions

Posted: Tue Nov 14, 2017 10:19 am
by bohica2xo
Wow. Good thing Mopar used two belts so that compressor could not slip @ 7000 engine rpm...

Great pic, thanks for sharing. Never a problem here to add to your thread.

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