AC not cooling after remained garaged for few months

[kapilamuni]

The TXV is not genuine or OEM. Only available is other parts as dealers don't supply AC parts. We dont have those smaller cans but can buy the required gas in weight , in Kgs.
Yes, you are right it cycles on/off in normal use but I didnt feel it in the cabin.

Is there a way to see if the compressor in good condition. I think its the one came from the factory, may be tired.

[JohnHere]

Removed both TXV and RD. The TXV looks clean and not blocked(?).

The TXV is not genuine or OEM. Only available is other parts as dealers don't supply AC parts.

What we presume to be the original TXV appears clean and unblocked, so I would hold onto it since it's the OEM (probably expensive) BMW part, most likely no longer available, and it seemed to work fine before the refrigerant leaked out. If the aftermarket TXV that you installed should malfunction for some reason, you can always reinstall the original one.

We dont have those smaller cans but can buy the required gas in weight , in Kgs.

Okay, so 1100 grams of refrigerant (the midpoint of what the under-hood decal calls for) equals 1.1 kilograms while 1150 kilograms (the maximum called for) equals 1.15 kilograms. Did you charge it with 1 Kg. plus a little more? If so, and everything else is working correctly with no leaks, you should be seeing the aforementioned vent temperatures and high-side pressure at your 29C or 84F ambient temperature. At 28 PSI, the low side looks good.

Yes, you are right it cycles on/off in normal use but I didnt feel it in the cabin.

You probably won't notice the compressor cycling while driving because BMW cabins are usually well sound-insulated.

Is there a way to see if the compressor in good condition. I think its the one came from the factory, may be tired.

Outside of any unusual noises, obvious external leaks, or physical damage, a good compressor should be able to reach relatively high pressures on the high side. An experienced MVAC technician can raise the high side to those levels while closely monitoring the gauges so that the system pressures don't go too high. Because of the safety risks involved, this testing methodology is best left to a professional. If you have any doubts about the "health" of the existing compressor, which at 24 years of age might be getting weak, I would just replace it with a brand-new one, not a rebuilt.

[kapilamuni]

Ran for two days now even with outside temps reaching 32 C , it performed well.
Yes, I will keep the old TXV as what I put in is some Chinese TXV.
No I didn't measure the charge, only did it by sweatness on the suction line. I don't have the equipment.
Buying a new compressor is a NO go, very very expensive and I might have to import it.
An AC tech told me that my car's compressor (Denso 10PA17) is used in Toyota Hiace and may be I can source a used part, If needed.

I will cut the old RD and show here. Anything specific i should see?

Once again Thank you !

[JohnHere]

Ran for two days now even with outside temps reaching 32 C , it performed well.

Glad to hear that. Other than the suspected plugging of the R/D, did you ever find any leaks in the system?

Yes, I will keep the old TXV as what I put in is some Chinese TXV.

Always a good idea.

No I didn't measure the charge, only did it by sweatness on the suction line. I don't have the equipment.

I wasn't clear. The question that I had in mind was how do suppliers package R-134a refrigerant in the country in which you live, in 1-kilogram containers or something else? Just curious about how they sell it there. In the USA, it's common to find R-134a packaged in the small 12-ounce cans or in 30-pound cylinders.

Buying a new compressor is a NO go, very very expensive and I might have to import it.
An AC tech told me that my car's compressor (Denso 10PA17) is used in Toyota Hiace and may be I can source a used part, If needed.

Good idea on the used compressor. There's always a chance of getting a bad one, though. Hopefully, you won't have to replace it since your original compressor seems to be working well. Many US-spec Toyota models use Denso compressors.

I will cut the old RD and show here. Anything specific i should see?

A good way to cut open the old R/D is to secure it in a vise and use an angle grinder with a thin-kerf metal cutting disk installed. A hacksaw will work, but it's slower. Protect your eyes while cutting it. Things to look for are something blocking the screen at the bottom and the integrity of the desiccant bag. The desiccant beads should be contained within the bag and not floating around loose. If you get an error message when trying to post photos (e.g., file too big), you might have to use a compression app to downsize the photo files.

[bmills2@twc.com]

the system on all cars must have over 50 psi to turn compressor on . need freon and The expansion valve & the suction line was frosted this also is a sign of low freon. You would think this is a sign it is over full also frost blowing out the vents, system is about to quit., out of freon

[JohnHere]

the system on all cars must have over 50 psi to turn compressor on . need freon and The expansion valve & the suction line was frosted this also is a sign of low freon. You would think this is a sign it is over full also frost blowing out the vents, system is about to quit., out of freon

OP evacuated and recharged the system to what is estimated to be a full charge and said that the system is now working well. Looks like it's fixed, at least for now.

[kapilamuni]

I cut open the RD and it's holes are all blocked with some light brown colour dust like wet thing. Got few pictures but can't get them to shrink to post here.

Car is fine and hope it remains so.

Initially, I got the system vaccd and within 30mts it dropped to 20. So I vaccd again and put some gas in about 20psi and checked for leaks with saopy water. Found the single pressure sw mount has a slow leak. Removed that and replaced the o-ring and afterwards the vacc held. Then only I charged upto sweating(just about to) suction line.
My worst fear is a leak in the evaporator where I need to remove the dash top. I own this car for the last 10 years and didn't do anything on the AC system except topping up gas whenever cooling goes down. But that's not frequent issue until this issue cropped up.

Our AC parts shops get their gas in bulk. We have to take an empty 30kg(?) can and they will fill it with the amount we want(min 1 kg). We dont have those 12 oz cans here. R134a cost about 15 USD for kg.

Thanks everyone again.

[kapilamuni]

Hi,
I'm back again with no AC.
This time no cooling but screaching noise from the compressor. Re-tighten the AC belt but no luck
Got the set of gauges and
idling, AC off, ext. temp 32 C (but tested inside gaurage)
Hi- 100, Low - 90 psi.

AC on,
Hi - 125, Low - ( -5) psi

1500 RPM
Hi: 125, Low : 5

Thought another leak and checked with my snipper (chinese) and no indication in any place.
So added a very slight amount of 134 (by momentarily opening the tank) and then;
Idling Hi: 150, Low : 10
1500 RPM Hi: 175, Low: 15

After a whlie Hi: 205 , Low: 25, and got the inside temp dropping to a cold 10 C. Yet, there is no sweating from the suction line ( my method of gas sufficiency ) also when AC on, the compressor keeps screaching.
So thought the compressor front hub gap is large and removed it to see there were two steel washers. Removed one and installed then can't rotate the hub by hand. So replaced it back to initial setting.
I'm bit reluctant to use the AC now though cooling is very good as this noise means something wrong with the compressor. Your views please.

( I have compressed the photo of my blocked RD and still I'm unable to attache here as its 510 KB)

[Cusser]

There's a refrigerant leak.

[kapilamuni]

Any idea about that noise?
It's not the belt. Could it be faling clutch coil?

Also, heard rarely, whoosing momentarily (sometimes even without AC on)from the compressor area. could the high pressore valve(not sure what it is?) on the discharge line do this?