06 Jag schrader valve replacement

[JohnHere]

Is the port adapter (the part into which the Schrader valve screws) removable from the liquid line? If so, you might be able to locate another adapter with the same thread that accepts a more readily available Schrader valve.

[mikeh85]

Is the port adapter (the part into which the Schrader valve screws) removable from the liquid line? If so, you might be able to locate another adapter with the same thread that accepts a more readily available Schrader valve.

Sadly, no. They are part of a line set that runs between the evap and compressor/condenser. And although the complete line set is available for around $150, it is one of those parts that was put on before the rest of the car was built.

I'll check with Century Tool, but really seems like I should just get the Jag valve. Did not realize this little part was going to be such a headache. I thought a schrader is a schrader... clearly not since I'm doing the job a 2nd time.

[JohnHere]

After looking into this in more detail, the aftermarket Schrader valve that you used, although different looking from the original part, is supposed to be the correct replacement. It's certainly possible that the "new" one was defective from the factory, or maybe the factory just forgot to put in the nylon/rubber seat seal that we expected to see, resulting in the metal-to-metal contact area that you noticed. You could try ordering another aftermarket kit from Santech, or bite the bullet and go with the OEM part and a new cap to ensure it's sealed up nice and tight.

[mikeh85]

After looking into this in more detail, the aftermarket Schrader valve that you used, although different looking from the original part, is supposed to be the correct replacement. It's certainly possible that the "new" one was defective from the factory, or maybe the factory just forgot to put in the nylon/rubber seat seal that we expected to see, resulting in the metal-to-metal contact area that you noticed. You could try ordering another aftermarket kit from Santech, or bite the bullet and go with the OEM part and a new cap to ensure it's sealed up nice and tight.

Hmm... didn't know these were made by Santech, that is a clue that helps a lot. Googling that, I found there's a Santech MT0301 valve which looks like the OE except it's specified for Volvo. Can't quite tell if the threads are the same, but from photos it looks identical.

The one I used does not appear to ever have had a seal inside it. I guess now the question is do I throw a few bucks at ordering these Santech 301s and see how they compare. Are these generally a trusted brand/construction? I see they are shipping from China. Or I could get a OE Volvo 6849305 for $9. Ford owned both Jag and Volvo in those years, bet dollars to donuts they shared the same supplier.

[JohnHere]

The Santech brand is well known in the trade, so I wouldn't hesitate ordering from them. The ones you turned up from Santech and Volvo seem to be a close match, if not identical, and probably produced in the same factory in China. Chances are either one would fit. Your call.

[Tim]

I looked at those yesterday. Not sure if they are the same, so did not mention them. Good chance they are. Local NAPA should have them.

[Cusser]

To me, it's just so weird that low-volume vehicle manufacturer Jaguar would use such a specialty schraeder valve in the first place !!!

[mikeh85]

Thank you all for the replies--I'll order some of the Santech and see how they compare to the original. If my local NAPA has them in stock I'll bring the OE to compare. Will post back when I find out more.

To me, it's just so weird that low-volume vehicle manufacturer Jaguar would use such a specialty schraeder valve in the first place !!!

Ha, nothing on Jaguar surprises me anymore. Most of the engine and vehicle sensors are standard Fomoco or Bosch parts, electrical connectors are from Toyota, so you can usually cross reference those to the OE supplier. But the AC system seems to be an odd conglomeration of things nobody else uses. When I replaced the condenser I could not find o-rings that matched. I have 2 ktis of AC o-rings and nothing was the correct CS or ID. Ended up having to pay $6/ea from the dealer for those.