Help me diagnose my AC

[brielly]

Yes, that condenser looks like the one I have. Misting the condenser did bring down the high side pressure into the low to mid 200's. Does that indicate a bad condenser? I have no idea what color the orifice tube is, its part of one of the lines which is new btw. When I changed things out I only added the amount of oil that came out of the accumulator which was 2 oz. Nothing came out of the other parts so I don;t know the exact amount of oil but things were working fine before all of this happened.

[Tim]

Inlet and outlet temp on the condenser? I'll ask another way to be clear. What's the temperature drop from the inlet to the outlet on the condenser.

[brielly]

I'll check and get back to you

[brielly]

temps are 140 and 125 on the condenser lines

[Al9]

Nothing came out of the other parts

PAG oil is polar, hence it sticks to anything metal. Generally speaking if the part has a large internal surface area (such is the case of a condenser, an evaporator or the desiccant media of an accumulator/receiver dryer), then the part will retain a lot of it unless it gets flushed out.

I'll throw down my gauntlet in there. Perhaps whatever pressure switch/transducer that is making the e-fan turn on is somewhat defective and sensing a lower than real high side pressure for some reason and the e-fan isn't turning on whenever intended as a result?

[brielly]

I believe the switch is working right. As I watched the high side pressure rise on the gauge the fan would come on and then turn off when it dropped.

[bohica2xo]

Brielly:

Go to https://www.eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp

And spend the 20 bucks for a one month subscription.

You will get access to the FSM data and full wiring diagrams. The sensor calibration points. The fan logic path. And any temperature / pressure reference data that Jeep provided for that model year.

Honestly it sounds like you might have a substandard condenser assembly...
IF all of the factory fan shrouds and air dams are in place. A single piece of missing plastic can cause all sorts of issues. The heart exchanger stack (Radiator / Condenser / transmission cooler/ etc) needs to keep the airflow contained & moving through each piece . A n unintended gap at the edge of one component can let the air bypass that component on the way to the fan.

Your electric fan comes on when the pressures rise. At one point you were seeing cycling under full load test - which was likely cycling on the HPCO.

Generally, spraying water on a good condenser results in a huge pressure drop on the high side, to well below 2x the ambient air temperature.

[brielly]

I'm going to replace the condenser and see what happens. It's pretty easy to do and not too expensive. Thanks!

[Dougflas]

I'm going to replace the condenser and see what happens. It's pretty easy to do and not too expensive. Thanks!

Why not try getting a condenser from Tim?