Some additional comments about R-1234yf... Last summer, I purchased a new Toyota 4Runner Limited that has the above mentioned refrigerant, my first personally owned vehicle that didn't have either R-12 or R-134a. The best it would cool for me on a hot summer day here in the humid South (~90°F) was i...

I would worry because it might not seal tightly enough after crimping, which you wouldn't notice until after the system is assembled and charged.

The soft copper washers probably would help to ensure a leak-free seal, as would the Nylog Blue. I've never used the copper washers, though.

Mogman...just a friendly reminder that the 'Forum rules' preclude the posting of links to outside businesses. Kindly see Rule Number 8. In addition, we cannot offer any opinions as to whether an outside business is reputable. Therefore, I'll remove earlier links and associated text in your Post 44.

Obviously, condensate is building up in the evaporator case and then overflowing, creating a huge mess. The question is, why? Your vehicle is a 2014 model year, about ten years old and old enough for debris and gunk (decayed leaf litter, for example) to have built up in and around the evaporator. I ...

For R-134a systems, I've always used Nylog Blue on the system's o-rings, joints, and threads with excellent results. If you do use this product, remember that just a little goes a long way. I suppose that using the same PAG oil you're using in the system will help ease assembly of your barrier hose ...

I haven't been on the Forum for a while due to vacation. But we're back now, and I'll have a look. I see that the thread is already three pages long. Thanks, Dave.

If you had the professional equipment that you need for the job, you could start by having a pro shop recover the refrigerant that's in it now and repair the leak(s). Then, you could evacuate and recharge it to specs at home. But doing it that way would mean you would have to invest in the proper to...

Check for an under-hood decal that will specify what type of refrigerant and oil it takes (unless the decal is gone).

For a lasting repair, I recommend purchasing a new compressor, which usually comes with a new clutch. Tim will have or can get everything you need at the best prices.

As already said, indications are that the compressor has failed internally, as well as the clutch. That means you'll have to replace not only the compressor assembly but also the condenser, the receiver/dryer or accumulator, and possibly the metering device. The lines can be flushed with the proper ...