Try a small, thin-blade screwdriver worked into the keyway and tapped in gently behind the key to pop it out.

Glad you found and fixed the "re-heat," blend door, and electrical issues. I could have captured refrigerant analyzed, but thinking just moving forward with 134a conversion mainly for availability of refrigerant for future maintenance. I think that's a wise move. Even though R-134a appears...

Adding to what Rick said, it could also be the water pump, alternator, power steering pump, or the drive belt itself. Belts can make some odd noises sometimes. Try using a mechanic's stethoscope or a length of heater hose held to one ear to isolate the noise. Does it do it only with the A/C turned o...

AutoZone carries many of those GM replacement connectors. Check your local store or their Web site. If not, a Chevy dealer (or any GM dealer) could probably order it for you.

The previous questions and comments by tbirdtbird are right-on. As for me, I don't use the small 12-ounce cans for charging. It's just too difficult to "juggle" them and to get the correct charge in, as you discovered. It's much easier to place a 30-pound tank on the scale and let the scal...

After re-reading this thread and viewing the photos, I get "mixed signals" about what was done to this system. Some of the components seem to suggest it was converted to R-134a at an earlier time, yet it still has the R-12 1/4" flare fittings and a R/D with a sight glass, suggesting R...

Using a micron gauge is a great way to monitor the precise vacuum while evacuating a system. I use one all the time. But I wouldn't want to forego a good manifold gauge set while servicing a system to monitor both low-side and high-side system pressures while charging and afterward. It will tell you...

Depending on where you look, the spec is either 32 ounces or 36 ounces. For the 1994-95 model years, my references call for the following: All engines without rear A/C - 36.0 ounces net weight of R-134a and 8.0 fluid ounces of PAG-150. Evacuated and charged with 32 ounces of R134a. System pressures...

I, too, am leaning toward the OT...either defective or the wrong one...not allowing the compressor to build sufficient pressure. It might also be a damaged or missing o-ring, allowing refrigerant to bypass the OT.

I'm not clear on something. Is the evaporator kit you mentioned actually connected to a compressor, condenser, etcetera, under the hood or is it installed in the cabin and just sitting there not connected to anything other than the electrical wiring for the blower motor?