I think some do have a open throttle A/C cutoff. I had a 1979 Toyota 4x4 mini-pickup and the A/C cut off when at idle speed.

It lost 10psi overnight but using soapy water can't detect any leaks in the compressor or my connections. Since it's deadheaded using a clutch plate tool on the threads you can only rock it back/forth which makes the pressure go up/down a little. Put 150psi overnight and it hardly moved at all. Blee...

Made my manifold adapter up and put the N2 to it. I isolated the compressor with about 105psi but since there was only 10psi in the system when I checked, I left it there. After hearing that it's going to be much cooler tomorrow but N2 pressure doesn't vary with temperature as much as air, I forgot ...

All current dryers are compatible with R12 and R134A.

Have you tried brake cleaner? Are you talking about your manifold hoses?

I'm in the middle of pulling out an HR6 from a 1990 Buick for a leaky shaft seal. I replaced the seal two years but it never held up but unsure if I installed a double lip seal or not. A while back I ran across compressor testing adapter not if it was a Santech, FJC, etc. and there were no details a...

Not sure why such bypass would be needed, as factory system would have AC clutch engaged all that time anyway, unless malfunctioning. If there's moisture in the air, a too-cold evaporator would freeze moisture condensed from the air, blocking the air flow unless compressor was allowed to cycle so s...

Thanks for that. That makes sense, so the pump has enough vacuum to overcome the vacuum in the aircon system. Hopefully I've learned my lesson this time. Some vacuum pumps are listed as having a check valve to prevent this in case the power is pulled(no different than switching it off), my JB is su...

Another thing. If after you pull the vacuum, close the manifold valves, decide you need to run your vacuum pump again, be sure to start it first and run it for a while or you'll suck the oil from the vacuum pump that way.

some of the compressors have a switch added to the rear end (i.e. opposite the pulley end) and all I have seen at least have a spot for it. One wire connects to it as I recall and it may be the switch that cuts power to the clutch if the discharge gets too high, but not certain. Anyway It should be...