Number one failure mode of mobile a/c is loss of refrigerant due to a leak-- so have your refrigerant pressures checked- best to recovered and weigh it out and compare to factory spec- then you'll know if you need to find and fix a leak....

Better to be heavy on oil than to be shy on oil....I've seen double charges of oil before-- can affect efficiencies, but not really hurt the pump, until you go 3 times or more the amount needed..

What you have sounds pretty good to me. Pressures always drop when fan(s) kick on. You did not mention ambient temp- 250 psi is NOT high- it is near normal when at 80+ degrees ambient. Of course to do it right- have refrigerant recovered and weighed- and recharged to factory (under hood labeled) spe...

Depends on the vehicle- all GM trucks (front only systems) have their expansion device (OT) in condenser outlet- so yes, condenser line to evaporator will be cool---Most cars have their expansion devices at entrance to evaporator, so no, it should be warm---A condenser restriction can act as an expa...

It was called an "afterblow module"...ran 1 minute in ten minute period for up to ten times. Many folks complained their blower would not shut down- afraid their battery would die.

yep!

It is refrigerant (a condensible) not air (compressible)-- you can have 2 ounces or 2 lbs or 20 lbs and static pressure will be the same! That is why we say pressure means very little until you weigh out or in the refrigerant amount....

Doesn't matter how much you put in it-- it all will come out via your serious leak.....o psi means you are completely flat-- would you just add air to a o psi tire and run with that? Expect to find and fix your leak if you want it to cool.

You can try--- 65% of all mobile a/c failure is due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak- according to my 5,000+ database- so you play the odds...but to be sure you must have the factory specified amount of refrigerant in the system before you even consider reading pressures....My first step is alwa...

Recover charge, remove lines to TXV, remove TXV from Evap inlet, replace with new one- mount lines, evacuate system for 15 minutes, and recharge to factory spec- should take 30 minutes max. if you have a recovery, recycle, recharge machine available. How do you know you have a bad TXV? The most impo...