DetroitAC wrote: ↑Thu May 19, 2022 3:19 pm Looks like a pressure switch fitting to me, that portion below the threads is for an o-ring

Yep.

At 80 degrees ambient. You're hardly in an optimal temp range to perform diagnostics. Posted readings are not far off. Again, I would do nothing until it is warmer out. But that's just me.

Air temp: 79 Humidity <20% at idle: 36 on low side, 225 on high side, temps about 40 and greater at 1800RPM: 30 on low side, 220 on high side, temp about 38 and greater Misting at 1800 RPM: 30 on low side, 160 on high side, temps 38 and greater 220 psi, not sure why an issue is being raised about h...

Perfect pressures overall. 39 degrees while driving. Not sure why one would want to mess with it at all. As Cusser suggested, the issue could be freezing up. But it was stated the airflow never slowed down.

I'd leave it alone.

I believe the specific charge level issue comes from some systems with a low refrigerant capacity. When a system refrigerant capacity is 6 or 7 ounces. Being off by using those amazon products can make things worse. When you have a 7-page thread on why I'm not cooling. I think it is beyond the abili...

I agree OP's Durango likely undercharged. I don't know why you guys have these opinions about 1234YF, it's not my experience. The charge window "length" is about the same as 134a, usually 100g. I worked on this condenser. My point is those single gauge discount charge gadgets. Are never g...

Those single-guage discount kits are worthless for proper diagnosis.

The irony is, now Tim still won't sell the parts but now it's on account of you tbirdtbird. If available and you're in the US. I don't see why we would not ship items to you. With little support these days. Next year when server renewal is due. Choices will be made. 1996 to 2022 was a pretty good r...

John, the first year Tacoma, 95.5 had the most amazing A/C I have ever seen. And yes, it was R134a!