Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum

The three line sizes in the average system reflect the density and velocity of the refrigerant.

The Suction line to the compressor is generally carrying cool gas. Usually a -10 line. Some systems use a -12 suction line. I have seen -8 suction lines on some small imports.

The discharge line runs ...

Draining, measuring and inspecting the drained shipping oil on a new compressor is absolutely needed.

I also suggest adding an ounce or two of the oil you intend to use in the new unit, and flushing it through the new compressor to make sure it has cleared the unknown oil
 

Given the very large evaporator you are using, the line lengths and large receiver in your system, I would treat it the same as an Expedition or Excursion using the same FS10 compressor with Rear A/C.

Expedition:
1997 All Eng.; w/ Rear AC – 13.00 Oz. PAG-46; 62.00 Oz. R-134a

Excursion:
All Eng.; w ...

That would depend on your expansion valve. My parts list for that Jaguar shows a brass, right angle externally equalized expansion valve.

Later models had the H type aluminum expansion valve with both the liquid and suction line connections. Which valve does your car have?

We don't rely on OEM ...

Your compressor will be fine. Looks like both cars used some variant of the H_6 series. HD6, HT6 etc.

The Caprice condenser would be much easier to make hoses for. It uses standard male O ring fittings that are available everywhere.

The one thing about the mid 1990's big GM condensers is they used ...

What was the donor car for the Condenser you are using?

We can look it up and tell you more about it

It is a GM compressor. There is wide range of manifold blocks that would offer a better hose routing than that OEM manifold you are trying to bend.

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Your 1988 XJS should have a brass expansion valve mounted at the evaporator. Later cars have the block type expansion valve. This can lead to some confusion.

If we start with the suction line to the compressor, it starts at the Evaporator. Usually a 5/8" ID or larger line, it goes straight to the ...

I usually mount a gauge like that at the vacuum hose connection on the manifold.

That way I can start by checking the hoses and manifold for leaks before I connect to the system. As well as checking the vacuum pump itself.

Valves shut, manifold and valves are under test. Note the maximum vacuum ...

Have to pressure check it anyway.

Pump it down and pressurize it with dry nitrogen to 150 psi. Check it in a few days. If it holds, you can drive it around like that (with the compressor unplugged) indefinitely.