Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum

forumoto wrote:Metering device? You mean the manifold gauge or what?

Negative. I am speaking of the TXV or orfice tube. There are the devices that allow refrigerant to flow into the evaporator.

Start looking at the metering device. If possible, tape a gauge set onto the windshield and give us the readings.

Before placing 12 volts on the fan leads to see if it works, disconnect the fan from the vehicle wiring. You o not want to chance back feeing to the PCM.

<<this car was originally r 22 so only has low pressure valve. the low pressure psi was 28 psi. the ac shop that that was good low side pressure as according to ac shop low side pressure is good between 30 and 45 psi.>>

I think you meant R12 not R22. As mentioned, you need a real AC shop.

That machine you posted does not reclaim. It is only for recovery. You would have to use new refrigerant if you used that machine. And as mentioned, it does not separate refrigerant from oil.

brielly wrote:I'm going to replace the condenser and see what happens. It's pretty easy to do and not too expensive. Thanks!

Why not try getting a condenser from Tim?

Do you have access to an infared thermometer? Shoot the condenser and see if you get to an area that has a big change. A thermal camera is even better.

Airflow across condenser. It is possible the new condenser is bad or the fan clutch.

Measure the input and output of the evaporator tubes. The readings (taken with the same thermometer) should be the same and the output a few degrees cooler) 320 high side at idle is too much. So you may have a defective condenser, fan clutch, missing air dam shields; what ever is causing the high ...

Just for giggles, clamp off the heater core to ensure you're not reheating. You may have a partially plugged evaporator.