Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum

When I worked for Delphi Thermal, the refrigerant lines and hoses people informed me that the plastic caps are designed to be the primeary seals- thats why they have a rubber element or washer or seal in them. The shrader valves are there to hold in the refrigerant just long enough to get the caps ...

Bought two drums two years ago for about $259 if I remember. It's $325 now.

Didn't find any leaks but nothing is really accessible. Charged it up with 15 oz r1234 and it's blowing cold. Hope I didn't just waste $45.

Ok, using the one on the left with the knurled body for easy changing.

2400 mircons this morning. Think I will try nitrogen and soapy liquid to check for leaks. If that doesn't find anything, I'll have to go to plan B.

I found a box of adapters I forgot I had bought some time ago. These two have the correct threads. Any reason to use one over the other?

Is this what I need?

(Link removed.)

My manifold gauge set was made for R134A, but I bought R1234yf couplers to fit the car's R1234yf service ports. The problem is the yellow hose doesn't fit the left hand thread of the R1234yf drum of freon. What adapter do I need for that or must I buy a whole new hose?

Another 6 hours have passed and it's at 1400 microns. How much R1234 do I add to do a sniff test? It's almost $3 an ounce. Can I use R134 for that, since it will be removed anyway? Also have nitrogen but not sure how easy that would be for a small leak.

I got this 2019 Honda Civic R last winter with a bad clutch and a transmission grind. Finally got all that fixed and started it up today only to find the a/c not working. Pretty sure it was working a few months ago. Anyway, gauges attached and show ZERO pressure. So I attach a vacuum pump and micron ...