Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum

These problems could be electrical in nature. If so, the system might have set a code, or codes, that can be read using a scan tool. Your local AutoZone can scan it for you, usually at no cost.

1. Using the Rotunda A/C Test Fittings connected to the evaporator inlet and outlet tubes and connected to my gauge set, I ran the vacuum pump for two hours and the gauge read (30 in-Hg). The evaporator has been sitting in a vacuum for more than a week now with no movement in the gauge. The ...

How many miles has your Corolla logged?


I recently bought a 2010 Corolla. The AC system does not provide any cooling from the ambient air. I finally got a chance to start diagnosing it yesterday and my immediate issue is the compressor is locked in the engaged position. The pulley is still ...

When I drained the old compressor…..not a drop of oil came out. The clutch disk spun freely and I could hear and feel that it was still pumping. Is that unusual to have no oil in the compressor?
It's not unusual. For lubrication, some compressors rely on oil that's carried continuously throughout ...

The low-side pressures aren't too bad, but the high side is much too high, pointing to a condensing problem.

I would attack this problem on two fronts:
1. Replace the fan, check that nothing is obstructing airflow through the condenser, and that all foam seals and shrouds are in place. (The water ...

Springlock Connectors aren't reliable IMHO, but they ARE cheap, appealing to corporate "bean counters." Instead of replacing the lines again, a clamp as described in the previous post helps solve the problem of the connector suddenly coming apart under pressure.

I'd also consider replacing the ...

I was afraid that you might not be able to remove the compressor with the studs in the way.

The oil is a question mark. If you can't get it all in the compressor, you'll have to "oil-balance" the system--that is, ~1.5 ounces in the evaporator, ~1.5 ounces in the condenser, ~1.5 ounces in the R/D or ...

If, say, the ambient temperature is 65°F, then the low side and high side should read about 30/160 PSI respectively.

An induction heater sounds like a good idea, or an acetylene torch if it's safe to use.

Alternatively, can you get a die grinder in there to grind-off the bolt heads and then use a set of locking pliers to remove the studs after the compressor is out?

Confused about a few things in your post. That said, is 125 PSI the static pressure (engine off, compressor disengaged) that you're reading on the low and high sides?