Engine Size: 2.4L
Refrigerant Type: R12
Country of Origin: United States
I noted in the flushing technical paper that leak stop product will harden once exposed to air. Based on the amount that sprays out when I depress a schrader valve it appears the car's previous owner went nuts with the product. It's oily (obviously) and appears to be a color and consistency similar to canned spray foam sealant in it's wet state.
My question is how much time do I have before it hardens? Is there a proper method to seal each hose and component properly to minimize hardening during disassembly? Rubber corks? Plastic wrap with rubber bands on all openings?
I'll be using the pulsator. Replacing compressor, dryer, TX valve, and rubber lines but I'd like to keep the rest. I'm assuming it's going to take quite a bit of time and material on the condenser and evaporator.
Depends on the sealer type. Really no way around it. System will need to be open and flushed. If something gets plugged it gets replaced. They don;t tell you this at the places that sell sealers. Hope you have the type that just expands o-rings. That type will flush out of a system with little problems.
It could just be excessive oils, dye, and seal sweller. Did you see any hardening or crystallizing in the sample you took? The time for this to occur is your answer (if it does). Based upon how the Neutronics "Sealant Detect" works, I do assume the hardening occurs in short time. If the hardening type is confirmed to be in this system, there must be some pre-planning and strategy to flush immediately. Obviously the quicker you can dilute the product with the flushing solvent, the better your chances are of getting it out before it can harden. Keep in mind that if the chemical reaction occurs that hardens this material, the flushing solvents then become useless at removing it.
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