Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum (Archives)

MHardee on Wed August 10, 2011 7:05 AM

Year: 98
Make: Chevrolet
Model: Monte Carlo Z34
Engine Size: 3.8
Refrigerant Type: R134A
Country of Origin: United States

Good Morning...

I have a new compressor, condensor, accumulator, OT and Manifold ordered from AMA which I hope will be arriving Friday. I ordered Hecat Flush to flush the evap and metal lines remaining. The question I have is after flushing.

I do spray paint and have a good drier on my compressor. The question I have is what pressure would be recommended for drying the evap? I also plan on stopping by Nexair today to see if they will rent a nitrogen tank ( short term). Would it be better to dry the majority of it with air followed by nitrogen? If so, what size Nitrogen bottle would provide an adequate supply to flush the evap and approximately 6 to 8 feet (total) of lines?


Thanks for all of the help trying to make us DIY'rs do this the correct way!

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True Shade Tree

TRB on Wed August 10, 2011 12:17 PM

80PSI shop air is fine creating some back pressure. Same with nitrogen but you have the added purity.

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HECAT on Wed August 10, 2011 3:02 PM

We recommend "Full" shop air, so as long as you have good dry air, you do not need to regulate it lower than it is normally set for shop work. But if you are concerned about low side component damage, you could regulate just below a 100 PSI. The idea is to generate the maximum volume of air through the component to dry out all the solvent (and not reintroduce contamination from your air lines). The HECAT Safe-Flush is designed for use with air operated flushing methods and has a boiling point high enough to remain liquid for the flushing process. It will evaporate but the air blow will take a good 20 to 30 minutes, followed by a "pop" test to confirm it is clean, clear, and dry. I would only use the nitrogen to pressure test, as it would take a lot of nitrogen to perform this drying process correctly.

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MHardee on Wed August 10, 2011 6:58 PM

Quote
Originally posted by: HECAT
We recommend "Full" shop air, so as long as you have good dry air, you do not need to regulate it lower than it is normally set for shop work. But if you are concerned about low side component damage, you could regulate just below a 100 PSI. The idea is to generate the maximum volume of air through the component to dry out all the solvent (and not reintroduce contamination from your air lines). The HECAT Safe-Flush is designed for use with air operated flushing methods and has a boiling point high enough to remain liquid for the flushing process. It will evaporate but the air blow will take a good 20 to 30 minutes, followed by a "pop" test to confirm it is clean, clear, and dry. I would only use the nitrogen to pressure test, as it would take a lot of nitrogen to perform this drying process correctly.

Thanks for the information... It helps a bunch!

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True Shade Tree