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Engine Size: 4.3L
Refrigerant Type: R134a
Ambient Temp: na
Pressure Low: na
Pressure High: na
Country of Origin: United States
I've read that purging the flush fluid with shop air will leave moisture inside the system and that you use nitrogen to get the air out. My question is where would a DIYer obtain nitrogen and would it be availabe in a suitable container like the Mastercool flush gun I purchased from AMA?
I flushed my system last year (long saga) and although the system worked fine when finished it didn't last. When it failed to work this summer I checked the orifice tube and found it full of soot, likewise the inline filter I had added to the output of the condenser. Would moisture left over from the last flush cause sooting? What does it cause? And what other system damage should I expect to find?
If you pulled a good vacuum before charging I don;t think your issue was moisture from the compressed air. Sounds more along the lines of not getting all the flushing agent out of the system. Flushing agent left behind will break down your fresh oil.
At the time I thought that I pulled a good vacuum but judging from the results thats certainly in doubt. So moisture left in the system would cause the oil to break down as seen from the sooting? Then once the oil was broken down bye-bye compressor? At this point what would you suggest doing to determine the extent of the damage?
No I'm saying you probably left flushing agent in the system which has broken down the oil.
My bad, I just reread your reply. I still have some of the flush that I used last year (Internynamics Flush & Clean) so I read the label and it says "Any Flush & Clean remaining in system after flushing procedure .... is compatible with R-134a and PAG oils...". So you think maybe they misspoke?
I also pulled the TXV from the rear evaporator and found more soot in the filter.
In regards to the effects of the soot/broken down oil, how much system damage would it cause? If the oil is broken down would the compressor be damaged and need to be replaced?
And thanks, I do appreciate your help with this.
I just had an afterthought: how do you get the flushing agent out of the system? It feels very oily which would not come out just using shop air. Do you recommend something to remove it?
thanks for all your help
So if the flush does not break down the oil and debris how is it supposed to clean your system. I hate those oil based flush products. If it were my vehicle I was start from scratch and use the Hecat flush equipment and replace the damaged components.
Oil based flushes DO NOT evaporate with an air or nitrogen purge. One must be smarter than the label, for it can be misleading as in this "residual is compatible statement". Using a solvent based product that will not harm system materials and will evaporate is preferable. Nitrogen does not remove moisture, its use just helps prevent introduction. Use a good air dryer (moisture separating filter) on your air supply and blow, blow, blow. We recommend a 20 to 30 minute blow minimum for the HECAT Safe-Flush, test to confirm removal (never assume), blow more if needed, and follow up with a good system vacuum for at least 1 hour. Debris in screens and filters are sure signs of a contaminated system, and the components will need to be flushed properly or replaced to correct this problem. The use of the oil based flush and an ineffective flushing method may have contributed to this repeat failure. Read the "Flushing Technical Paper" here for more details.
Thank you for that input. It certainly helped and gave me something to think about. From the tech paper you linked it would appear Hecat was geared to the automatic(?) flushing machines used by the professionals. Is there a Hecat flush product for the DIYer, too?
I'm looking to see what I can do to add a dryer to my shop air system and hope to find something "DIY". I have the front and rear evap units out and on the bench to be flushed. I am replacing the compressor, discharge hose, condenser, dryer and orifice tube. I've cleaned and reassembled the TXV (hoping that it was as straight forward as it appeared). I plan to flush the remaining lines in place. Would you have any tips or recommendations for me at this point?
thanks again for the assist
Oops... TXV calibration?? I removed and cleaned a small filter screen and backed out a hollow hex insert screw to clean the inner body and then reassembled it. Was there a calibration associated with any of that? It seemed to be a straight forward assembly process with no obvious settings to fool with. Am overlooking something here?
Also, I looked up the Pulsinator unit and find it out of reach for my remaining budget. Last year when I flushed the system I purchased the Mastercool flush kit (canister and blow gun) so will that work with the Hecat Safeflush to do an adequate job?
Well I suppose "oops" was correct because there was a spring located under the hex. Since I've no idea how to adjust it I ordered a new TXV. As to buying a Pulsator it would be more economical for me to find an AC shop and pay a pro to flush the evaporators, so I'll look into that. That only leaves the fluid lines to flush and I should be able to handle that adequately.
And thanks again, your assist at trying to educate me very appreciated
I'll keep rereading those articles on flushing.
For a shop to do a proper flush job it's about the same cost as the Pulsator. Buying the Pulsator you have it available for the next repair as where the shop will be an additional cost again! Something to think about if you plan on doing repairs yourself!
Now it may need a good mechanic . It can be fixed by my side .
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