2 problems at once, I think

pippo on Sat January 16, 2016 3:26 PM

Year: 2010
Make: chev
Model: cobalt LT

People,

Fan speed switch only responds to #4 position, AND blower motor screeches like madly loud. Sounds like bad bearing in motor, right? AND, I have a bad resitior for the dead 1,2,and 3 speeds, right?

If so, can anyone advise a new motor for my car from AC Kits? Bought one there before for another of my cars, and was happy.

Thanks

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pippo on Sat January 16, 2016 4:07 PM

hOW DOES ONE CUT OUT THAT BLOWER MOTOR? Do you slide a utility knife's blade up in that narrow slit of plastic and cut the molded plastic out? Also, the elec connector wont pop out, seems theres a blue tab which may be locking it in. Must I pull out that tab? 2 wires are in front of the tab preventing the tab from sliding outward.........

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beware of the arrival

pippo on Sun January 17, 2016 9:59 AM

OK, hack sawed out the motor, and now it works fine (plugged it in, works smoothly but only on knob position 4, no bearing screech). Also, pulled out the resistor, and motor runs on 4. Can a motor run without the resistor in place? Then, I popped resistor back ion and still, motor runs only on 4. Bad resistor for sure?

Mystery remains, why motor screeched in place, but when removed, no screech. No obstructions up in the evap housing.

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beware of the arrival

Cussboy on Sun January 17, 2016 10:19 AM

If mine, I'd replace both the blower resistor and and the blower motor.

I'm more than surprised that you "had to" cut stuff for access. Did you use a repair manual?

pippo on Sun January 17, 2016 1:10 PM

Quote
Originally posted by: Cussboy
If mine, I'd replace both the blower resistor and and the blower motor.

I'm more than surprised that you "had to" cut stuff for access. Did you use a repair manual?

No other way but to cut/hack out this stupidly engineered motor casing. I know it sounds crazy, but believe me, I found out the motor is plastic hot melt SEALED.

Ended up, I took apart the motor, and there is no bearing- its a bushing, and it was just seized up from some moisture. All good now, gonna pop it back in after I make a bracket for it. No other way. GM engineering.

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beware of the arrival

Cussboy on Sun January 17, 2016 3:01 PM

Quote
Originally posted by: pippo
Quote
Originally posted by: Cussboy
If mine, I'd replace both the blower resistor and and the blower motor.

I'm more than surprised that you "had to" cut stuff for access. Did you use a repair manual?
No other way but to cut/hack out this stupidly engineered motor casing. I know it sounds crazy, but believe me, I found out the motor is plastic hot melt SEALED.
Ended up, I took apart the motor, and there is no bearing- its a bushing, and it was just seized up from some moisture. All good now, gonna pop it back in after I make a bracket for it. No other way. GM engineering.

I DO believe you; 2 weeks ago I had to grind shorter a 5.5mm socket at both ends to get 1/4 drive ratchet to fit on the innermost of two attachment screws on the AC/heat flap actuator on Mrs. Cusser's 2005 GMC Yukon. Why ??? BECAUSE THE TUNNEL/HUMP WAS IN THE WAY !!! Great engineering, GM !!! The hump was also in the way to remove the innermost dash undercover for access that, same reason, so dumb. In under 5 minutes, I came up with allen head shoulder screw would've been better for R&R, as would have been a hex head duplex screw like this that one could access with an open end or box wrench

pippo on Sun January 17, 2016 4:17 PM

Keeps us using our heads, I guess.

Regards.

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beware of the arrival