Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum (Archives)

tonystuart on Tue June 16, 2015 4:59 PM

Year: 2002
Make: Volvo
Model: V70
Engine Size: 2.4T
Refrigerant Type: R134A
Ambient Temp: 75
Pressure Low: 36
Pressure High: 165
Country of Origin: United States

A little background, about a year ago I (foolishly) added refrigerant by way of a "kit" from a big box store. At the time the a/c was working but I felt the air was not cold enough. I tried to find a refrigerant that didn't advertise that it seals leaks but looking closer at the can now I see that it had 18% "additives". I did not weigh the can and cant specify how much went in but it was about 2oz. After educating myself I realize this was a mistake. I now have a gauge set and the good news is that the system seems to be holding pressure. When it blows cold, it is cold.

I get cold air upon start up and within a variable amount of time (2 minutes to 1 hour) the cold air turns to warm air. While blowing warm air, the compressor clutch is not spinning. It takes anywhere from 5 minutes to 1 hour with the engine off before the compressor engages again.

My first thought was that I introduced atmospheric air into the system (air in the kit hose) when I added refrigerant, and either the orifice or the accumulator was freezing up. But, after doing some reading I am wondering if the air gap in the clutch is out of tolerance. I plan to evacuate and recharge to be sure of the amount of refrigerant but I want to replace the accumulator if there is a possibility that it is compromised.

1. How can I determine if the accumulator is saturated?

2. Is there anything I can do to diagnose the clutch without taking it off?

3. Is it possible for a non licensed individual to buy R134A that doesn't have any additives?

4. During evacuation is there oil loss?

5. Is there a way to determine how much oil is in the system without removing parts and oil?


Thank you very much for your time and knowledge!

HECAT on Tue June 16, 2015 8:35 PM

1. Its used, its saturated.

2. With compressor on (engine on) and clutch not engaging, carefully tap the front clutch plate with something like a wooden hammer handle and see if it engages.

3. Yes, ask for pure 134a with no additives.

4. A very little can come out with the liquid refrigerant, not with the gas.

5. No

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tonystuart on Tue June 16, 2015 8:52 PM

Thank you HECAT! I'll get to work on it and report back.

GM Tech on Tue June 16, 2015 10:06 PM

Just did a nippondenso (Chrysler van) tonight- used the hammer handle trick- clutch pulled in- took 2 shims out- 10 minutes total time to do. it had 147k miles on it.

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The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

tonystuart on Wed June 17, 2015 10:06 AM

I touched the clutch and it kicked on. So, I guess I'm taking it off to see if it can be repaired. Any advice?

GM Tech on Wed June 17, 2015 12:13 PM

remove driver slowly and carefully- to determine how many shims arte behind it-- they will probably be attached to shaft magnetically- pull the thickest one, or both if they are the same width (if there are two-sometimes just one shim)

-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

bimmer49 on Fri June 26, 2015 10:30 AM

GM Tech: I have a similar issue on my V40. I managed to remove the 10mm headed bolt but failed to remove the electro-clutch. Would I be right in saying the inner part needs to be prized off the outer driven pulley? If so mine is firmly stuck on. I've now used release oil on the 10mm bolt mount hoping it will seep thru the pinion and come off at at later attempt.

Please advise if I am heading in the correct direction!


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Gazzer

GM Tech on Fri June 26, 2015 11:51 AM

Use 2 shims or 2 thin bladed screwdrivers to pry gently the clutch driver out-- keep wiggling applying prying pressure- it may take awhile, but it should eventually wiggle loose-- avoid bending the armature plate- or you will ruin the clutch driver.

-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

bimmer49 on Mon June 29, 2015 3:39 PM

GM Tech: Finally managed to prise off the plate, at the risk of bending it. Two spacers, ditched the fat one. Refitted. So far so good, not road tested it yet but at least I achieved the task.

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Gazzer