Engine Size: 2.5
Refrigerant Type: R134a
Ambient Temp: 75
Country of Origin: United States
Hi, everyone. Any input on where to look will be appreciated. 2005 Subaru Forester. After the compressor locked up, I replaced it with a rebuilt unit, along with the evaporator, expansion valve and condenser. I flushed the lines with Four Seasons Super Flush Solvent, but I did not run air through them for very long after the flushing was done to dry them out. It's the first time I flush anything AC related and I reckoned the flush would evaporate like brake cleaner. I then read up online a little and see that's not always the case. I pulled a vacuum for 1 hour and it held for more than 1 hour before adding the correct amount of refrigerant, measured by weight. Given the readings shown in the video below, what issues am I looking at? Could it be flush liquid in the system, an obstruction somewhere or ___?
Video of 2005 Subaru Forester AC Manifold Gauge readings
[Edited to correct link]
Edited: Wed May 27, 2015 at 4:05 AM by Linkister
Video is blocked stating that it's private.
Thanks for the heads up. It should be working now.
If you replaced everything but the lines and flushed the open lines only with the 4S Dura II flush; it is a refrigerant based flush and is very evaporative (IMHO, evaporates too quickly), and probably will blow quickly from the lines. Also because it is very evaporative, the 1 hr. vacuum should have flashed the remainder.
If you used another flush solvent other than the Dura II; you very well could have left some flush in there by not blowing diligently.
The video appears to be showing the low side too high and the high side rising up to hit on the HPCO. This could be caused by excessive liquid, air, a restriction, or fans not functioning properly.
Air can easily be introduced when moving from vacuum to charging, if not done correctly. This may be corrected with another vacuum and recharge.
I see no mention of the Filter/Dryer being replaced, or how much oil was installed.
Thanks for the reply and help. I got paranoid about the flush not evaporating with what I read online and also when I saw that the flush did not evaporate completely overnight in the can I used to catch it after using. I must admit I did not remove the lines as I know I should have because they looked like a pretty straight run and, well, being lazy and pressed for time. This is the flush I used:
Four Seasons Super Flush Solvent on Amazon
I'll have it evacced and do a proper flush again, removing the lines this time so I can stand them on end and have gravity help. I'll flush the evaporator and condenser also (remove dryer first) and dry them all with pressurized air to make sure.
You mention restriction as a possibility. I added the 1 oz PAG oil to the condenser through one of the line ports and noticed that the last of the ounce of oil wasn't going down into the coils. I figured it would soon enough, so I connected the line. Could that be a restriction? I think I added it through the outlet port of the condenser.
I trust I added the correct amount of refrigerant (calls for 19 to 23 oz, so I added one full 12 oz can and weighed the second can after and saw I added 10 oz from it)
The dryer was included in the new condenser, I checked to make sure it was present.
The compressor came with 4 oz PAG 100 and I added 1 oz to the evaporator and 1 oz to the condenser, for a total of 6 oz in the system.
The radiator fan was working correctly, cycling on and off while the A/C was off, and turning on when the A/C was running.
Edited: Wed May 27, 2015 at 1:37 PM by Linkister
You cannot shortcut flushing done properly. But I understand, as I have been my own worst enemy at times.
Remove the filter, compressor, and orifice to flush. After flushing everything else blow, blow, blow... dry, dry, dry... blow, blow, blow... then blow some more.
Drain the compressor of the contaminated oil (invert and rotate), and get a new filter.
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