Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum (Archives)

Jag987 on Wed April 08, 2015 2:01 AM

I know this is not the flush section, but I figure more people would see it here. I have been working on ac for years. I'm a bit of a tool nut, but never a lot of money for all the fancy stuff. I have done flushes all the wrong ways including just pouring the flush in and blowing it back out. Not very effective but I could say it was flushed. I bought a little one quart flush gun, but it honestly was not much better than what I was doing. Thanks to this forum, I bought the Hecat pulsator DIY kit. After using it for the first time on a Black Death evaporator, all I can say is Wow! I don't think I have ever properly flushed anything. The power, force and volume this thing puts out is amazing. It took both my hands on the gun to keep the tip held against the part being flushed. The pulsing action made it feel like it was really cleaning and busting through everything that was caught in the evaporator. Needless to say, I'm thoroughly impressed. The money I spent will be more than made up for by not having a comeback due to improper flushing. I wish I had the space for a larger system, I know it would be worth it.

Thanks Hecat!!!

-------------------------
I bought a can of 134a at w**-mart that had a stop leak, oil, and dye in it. It also had a hose and a gauge, so now I'm an AC pro!

HECAT on Wed April 08, 2015 9:44 AM

Jag987,

Thanks for posting your opinion and review of the Pulsator Flush Gun

Yes the professional models (FAC-200 & FAC-400) use the FAD-100 adapter kit (included) to make a cleaner and easier connection for this high flow and high performance pulsing blasting process. By using the Gun with rubber tip; the Pulsator Flush Gun is the most inexpensive way we can offer this necessary, required, and powerful pulse cleaning process. Here is a video clip of this little flusher.

With the complexity of the modern heat exchanger designs including the parallel flow micro channel condensers, combined with the presence of burnt oils (carbonized), excessive oils, additives, and metal shards; the Pulsator process is the most effective cleaning process on the market today, and the only method truly capable for this task. Anything less (pour-in, aerosols, and little flush guns) is not really flushing, they are just inexpensive methods to contaminate with a little solvent.

Many that say you cannot flush the modern components; have not seen or used this method, which is proven and very capable. There are only 2 ways to achieve the clean, dry, and "like new" environment, that compressor warranties require; step up to proven and capable flush tooling, or replace everything.

-------------------------

HECAT: www.hecatinc.com You support the Forum when you consider www.ackits.com for your a/c parts.

FLUSHING TECHNICAL PAPER vs2.pdf 

James89dx on Wed April 08, 2015 4:12 PM

Does this thing work on old style serpentine condensers?

HECAT on Wed April 08, 2015 5:35 PM

Yes, this solvent flusher is effective on all older thru current A/C and Oil heat exchanger designs. Tube & fin, Serpentine, Piccolo, Parallel path, Micro channel, Stack plate, Tube & shell, Cross flow, etc.; you name it, it can scrub it. We have a different tool that uses the Pulse & water for Cooling systems, Radiators, Heater cores, CAC's, etc.

-------------------------

HECAT: www.hecatinc.com You support the Forum when you consider www.ackits.com for your a/c parts.

FLUSHING TECHNICAL PAPER vs2.pdf 

Edited: Mon April 13, 2015 at 6:17 PM by HECAT

Jag987 on Wed April 08, 2015 5:47 PM

Can the model I have be adapted to use the FAD-100 adapter kit? I am thinking if a valve of some sort was connected to the hose at the top FI the tank, th gun could be removed from the other end and the adapters then used. Any input on this?

-------------------------
I bought a can of 134a at w**-mart that had a stop leak, oil, and dye in it. It also had a hose and a gauge, so now I'm an AC pro!

HECAT on Wed April 08, 2015 6:26 PM

I would not tamper with the hose at the pulse valve end. You could remove the gun and place a on/off ball valve there (or just use the gun trigger as your valve). Add a 3/8 hose (chemically compatible) at the valve or Gun outlet, with the industrial interchange quick coupler female on the end, and add the same female QC to the return hose. So as not to be restrictive, the quick coupler females will need to be of a style that can be de-valved (guts removed). Then you have to buy the FAD-100 adapter kit, that costs more than this little flusher. But why? This thing blasts so quickly, there does not seem like much benefit to such cost and effort. I would focus more on making adapters and methods to connect your dry air supply for the critical drying process.

-------------------------

HECAT: www.hecatinc.com You support the Forum when you consider www.ackits.com for your a/c parts.

FLUSHING TECHNICAL PAPER vs2.pdf 

Dougflas on Thu April 09, 2015 7:25 AM

Save old accumulators and hoses and make your own adaptors.

HECAT on Thu April 09, 2015 12:04 PM

You can also drill out the old TXV to make flush adapters.

-------------------------

HECAT: www.hecatinc.com You support the Forum when you consider www.ackits.com for your a/c parts.

FLUSHING TECHNICAL PAPER vs2.pdf 

Dougflas on Thu April 09, 2015 1:59 PM

I also do residential HVAC. Back in 2010, I had a job for a friend whose compressor blew out the terminals and he did not have it repaired. When summer came, he had me service it. The refigeration lines had green slime throughout the system I replaced the entire condensing unit, pulled the evaporator and used the Heacat pulsator to flush the system. The garbage that exited the evaporator was truly amazing. I flushed it multiple times with a flush solvent I bought off Ebay. It was about $14.00 per gallon. After cleaning the system, I ran dry nitrogen throuh the system. An oversized drier and triple evap has this system functioning still at this time. The pulsator is an amazing piece of equipment and definitely worth the investment.

wptski on Thu April 09, 2015 2:34 PM

Proper flushing is the correct way but in my very limit experience or just bad luck, connections are in such god forsaken locations, it's virtually impossible to get a good bite on them to loosen.

HECAT on Thu May 07, 2015 8:09 PM

Quote
Originally posted by: wptski
Proper flushing is the correct way but in my very limit experience or just bad luck, connections are in such god forsaken locations, it's virtually impossible to get a good bite on them to loosen.

I know what you mean. Compressors used to be right on top. Now it can take a minute just to find it, let alone get to it.

-------------------------


HECAT: www.hecatinc.com You support the Forum when you consider www.ackits.com for your a/c parts.

FLUSHING TECHNICAL PAPER vs2.pdf 

Jag987 on Mon May 11, 2015 11:39 PM

This is after the first gallon of flush from the condenser on a civic. I lost track on how many times I had to run the flush through, but it did come clean. And no, I did not use the same flush the whole time, the last pass was with new, clean fluid. The first pic is a paint strainer that I ran the safe flush fluid through before reusing, the second picture is what was still in the bucket.





WOW!!!Thanks Hecat, we saved this one!

-------------------------
I bought a can of 134a at w**-mart that had a stop leak, oil, and dye in it. It also had a hose and a gauge, so now I'm an AC pro!

Edited: Mon May 11, 2015 at 11:40 PM by Jag987

HECAT on Tue May 12, 2015 8:02 AM

Jag,

Thanks for posting the pics. Being able to see and validate your work is priceless.

Feels good knowing those fines are out, and not going to circulate with the refrigerant and oil; to return and grind up a new compressor!!!

-------------------------

HECAT: www.hecatinc.com You support the Forum when you consider www.ackits.com for your a/c parts.

FLUSHING TECHNICAL PAPER vs2.pdf 

wptski on Tue May 12, 2015 8:08 AM

Quote
Originally posted by: Jag987
This is after the first gallon of flush from the condenser on a civic. I lost track on how many times I had to run the flush through, but it did come clean. And no, I did not use the same flush the whole time, the last pass was with new, clean fluid. The first pic is a paint strainer that I ran the safe flush fluid through before reusing, the second picture is what was still in the bucket.











WOW!!!Thanks Hecat, we saved this one!
Those are aluminum flakes or what?

Jag987 on Tue May 12, 2015 12:05 PM

Looked like mostly aluminum, may have been some other metal in there as well.

-------------------------
I bought a can of 134a at w**-mart that had a stop leak, oil, and dye in it. It also had a hose and a gauge, so now I'm an AC pro!