Year: 1963
Make: Chevy
Model: Chevy II
Engine Size: 194
Refrigerant Type: R12
After installing an original factory rebuilt AC system recently, I went looking for trouble with a newly purchased leak detector tool off Amazon and may have found it today.
I started testing with the Signstek Portable AC Refrigerant Gas Leakage Detector Tester with High Sensitivity leak detector and it started chirping when I poked it into the vent of the evap case
Here is a link to the tool
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FYO8UL8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I took off the faceplate on the evaporator case and got some soap bubbles and on a brush and started slathering it onto the thermal expansion valve and no bubbles grew from anywhere on it or its connections.
Back before I assembled the system about a month ago I tested the evap with the thermal expansion valve connected and submerged with around 125 psi on it and there were no bubbles then so I assumed the evap was good.
At the time I charged it with r12 I did not add the UV dye which now I wish I had. I did pick some R12 Uv Dye up but wondered first if I am worried over nothing or if I should add the dye and get the goggles and see what I can.
Can UV dye even be added at this point?
Possibly a false alarm. Leak detectors can respond to vapors of other things than refrigerant.
There are tools to inject dye under pressure into a charged system.
I wish more people took the time to leak test like that.
I would agree with 378, probably a false hit. Some sealants outgas solvents that will trip a detector for weeks after they are used. Paint drying nearby, a shop rag within a few feet & a little breeze... those & many more will set off one of my leak testers.
New interior in the car? Fresh vinyl, carpet glue, etc will do it.
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"Among the many misdeeds of the British rule in India, history will look upon the act of depriving a whole nation of arms, as the blackest."
~ Mahatma Gandhi, Gandhi, An Autobiography, M. K. Gandhi, page 446.
What has me concerned is that the beeping kicks in right when the tip get close to the evap. Before I took the evap faceplate with vents off the front it would trigger it as soon as the tip went into a vent ball.
Now with the faceplate and all off for a few days it only does it as I get it close to the evap itself. And I even dulled down the sensitivity level all the way.
I dont have any new paint. adhesives, epoxies anywhere near this area so naturally im thinking the worst.
Are there any recommended tools/methods to inject the uv dye into the system just in case?
You have the system "open", so just pour in the dye.
The system is operational and cooling great right now, so I will need to find a tool to inject uv dye into the r12 system
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