Model: charger rallye
Engine Size: 340
Refrigerant Type: conv to 134
Ambient Temp: n/a
Pressure Low: n/a
Pressure High: n/a
Country of Origin: Canada
hello i am a disabled mechanic from Canada and I am restoring a 1973 dodge charger from Arizona . when I bought the car it was all original running 340 car with the factory RV-2 (big pig ) in my opinion .I have the factory vacuum set up under the dash and i was wondering if a electric unit id made and can it be installed into and to make work with my factory installed a/c system ? I have rebuilt the complete box with all the new parts seals and resistors . my controller as far as I can tell the controller clicks great and i have not hook'd up a meter to it yet to test continuity ,as I switch the controller . Without replacing the whole unit and the heater box and redo all the restoration work that i have done on the firewall ,i am really hoping for a good idea for a permanenet fix .I do own a brand new heater and A/C box complete from a 2002 dodge caravan . I remember taking these apart and seeing how they work when i was on the bench , but it has been 8 years since .I really hope that somebody on the forum has thought of this idea and or converted . hope to hear from you guys and gals soon ...it is so damn cold up here and old mother friggin' winter ain't lettin' up ...thanks ,,,,,
Later models often have the control entangled with a BCM computer and a CAN bus. You need to get the schematics from the donor car and make sure everything can be made to work independently. If it's a bus system you probably don't want to mess with it. You could look at models from the '90s where it's more likely the control panel is directly controlling the motors and commanding the compressor with a dedicated level-actuated wire.
Edited: Thu February 27, 2014 at 8:05 AM by mk378
Was commenting on this the other day, cable, then to vacuum, then to vacuum/electric, then to all electrical systems to essentially operate two mode doors and one blend door. How simple the cable systems were, one adjustment and a few drops of oil occasionally.
Think your vehicle is old enough not to use the blend door but a cable operated heater valve instead.
Old 82 P-30 uses the cable system with two sliding levers, one for the mode, other for the temperature control, simple and even works with a non running engine or a dead battery. But you have to slide a level instead of pushing a button.
Guess it all depends upon what you want to do. What's in there now?
Using a firmware controlled microcontroller to change MVAC settings introduced many new problems, don't even have access to this firmware. But does allow you to touch a button and pray all these electronics follows these commands.
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