Year: 1990
Make: Buick
Model: Century
Engine Size: 3.3L
Got this suggested part #37-23256 from AMA a few week ago along with other items. I pulled the OEM one out today. The OEM is 3 1/2"x 9 1/8" but this replacement is 3 1/2"x 8 3/4" but AMA shows the Accumulator as being 9 1/2" long. I measured wrong but the description is wrong as well. None of them fro a Buick match this size either!
Either way, it wouldn't be the exact size but how would/does that affect the system?
Edited: Sat July 13, 2013 at 5:21 PM by wptski
Does not make a difference. Use it. It is more important that the system be fully charged than to be concerned with this size difference. After completion of the repair have the system properly recharged by a pro utilizing the correct equipment.
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The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.
Thomas Jefferson
agreed, -- nada, nil, zippo difference
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The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......
As 'GM' so eloquently stated....nada...nip.....not sure about the most of the market, however, we do offer a evac and recharge for the DIY'er. Appointment only. Cash only. Since this is a service only, there is absolutely no warranty for this service. The invoice requires a signature (photo ID copy attached) that must be signed by the customer detailing this service. Got burned once.....not a tremendous problem.....but CYA now. This is a very good profitable service. Average cost billable @ 1.5 hours and parts. Evac and recharge....only.....the system does not work....compressor does not engage....system does not cool.....fans do not work...whatever else occurs...yes, this can be diagnosed. Please follow me and we shall write up a repair order for this service. Opps...a leak was found...no matter what or where.....it is a different repair. The service is for evac and recharge only....no other considerations. This should be explained to the customer prior to even allowing the vehicle into the shop.
This is just a policy...others may feel entirely different and this is also understandable.
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The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.
Thomas Jefferson
An added note about this accumulator. It came with four "O" rings. I assumed that the small ones were for the Schrader cap and the larger were for the standard 3/4" M/F fittings. The 3/4" "O" rings are way too thick compared to the OEM. AMA says that most don't even come with "O" rings, they vary by vendor and most often you have to supply them yourself. Don't know about that but shouldn't a "O" ring for a 3/4" fitting be a standard size and not vary by vendor?
The assortment kit that I got from AMA saves the day again!
You have 6, 8, 10, 12 o-rings plus the metric sizes. Both can be captured and non captured o-rings. Want the china man is tossing in a box is anyones guess. We always match o-rings with what is taken off the vehicle. Many times they match with the o-rings supplied but not always. And before anyone jumps on the Chinaman, back when these parts were made in the US, same issue.
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Translation: The cost of tuition in MVAC school is:
a) dirty looks and "I told you so's" from the pros (plus extra $$$ you didn't plan on spending), when you bring in the vehicle to have it evac'd and charged OR
b) More expensive equipment and lost time (and sometimes components)
Choose wisely :-)
Edited: Fri August 09, 2013 at 3:19 AM by webbch
Went to connect a vacuum gauge to one of the two Schrader valve ports on this accumulator(AMA Part # 37-23256). They are a 1/4" thread but the end isn't tapered but just squared off. For that reason or just that the valve core is deeper, a stock core depressor tip doesn't reach it. Is this a special fitting or what? It was mentioned in another thread that on some R-12 GM products high side, one needs a deep reach adapter. I'd need a 90 deg M/F or a M/M and still probably have to use a mirror to see the gauge reading.
I wonder if a Thumbscrew Core Depressor has enough travel to reach the core?
Edited: Sun August 11, 2013 at 3:23 PM by wptski
Here's what it looks like.
That's the switch port, isn't it? If your cycling switch is mounted somewhere else, you need to leave a cap on the accumulator port because shrader valves aren't designed to hold vacuum. Use the other port with the conventional fitting to evacuate and charge.
And most shops are like Iceman said, if you bring your own parts or did your own work they'll do only EXACTLY what you ask for, no warranty, no guarantee the car will leave working, no further diagnosis, etc. One of the quick lube chains was offering recover / evacuate / recharge services only, on those terms, they had simply brought in charging machines and would treat refrigerant like any other car fluid (including, I would assume, the usual quick lube deals of underfilling, overfilling, or just plain using the wrong stuff in the wrong hole). No one was further trained to do any more involved A/C work there. I don't know if that is still offered.
Edited: Mon August 12, 2013 at 10:52 AM by mk378
Do you mean cycling switch or pressure switch? I found a car forum with a posted question about accumulator ports with pictures. Can't tell exactly about the ports themselves but it showed a pressure mounted there and another capped port. Both ports were between the inlet and outlet. I'd assume that the pressure switch doesn't have a depressor, you must remove the core and mount the switch. My low pressure is mounted on the line.
I sacrificed a 90 deg. fitting that had a damaged seal(didn't even know that) by shimming out the depressor and cutting off the seal to match. I may try trial/error that.
when using CRT's, ou should close them and then reopen them and evacuate some more. They can hold moisture in their workings and this will work it out.
Look at the end on this Robinair fitting. It doesn't have much of a flared end on it at all but of course, no core so no problem.
Fitting
CCOT cycling switches are often mounted on the accumulator. They have a depressor to open the valve. That way you can R&R switch with the system charged. It appears it is a sort of universal-fit accumulator and you don't need either port for your car.
So it's not a so called standard 1/4" flare fitting, what's it called?
It's not a standard fitting used in general industry. It's something that GM or one of their suppliers developed specifically to interface with their plastic pressure switches.
Thanks!
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