Year: 1997
Make: Oldsmobile
Model: Aurora
Engine Size: 4.0L
Refrigerant Type: R-134a
Ambient Temp: 80
Pressure Low: 45
Pressure High: 260
Country of Origin: United States
I have had this car for about 4 years now; it currently has 205k miles on it, original compressor as far as I know. The A/C has always worked OK, if not as well as some other cars I've owned. This year it was not blowing as cold; the evaporator inlet was cold but the outlet and accumulator were warm so I assumed a low charge. I have a friend who works at a tractor shop and has access to a recovery/recharge machine, so Saturday morning we hooked it up and recovered the charge. We recovered 1lb 10oz; system capacity is 2lbs so it was indeed low. It held a vacuum so we went ahead charged it with 2lbs; at idle I was seeing about 35psi low and 160psi high at 75ð ambient temperature with vent temps at around 45ð.
My wife ran an errand Saturday evening and when she pulled in the driveway at home I could hear something clattering under the hood. I turned off the A/C and the noise went away, turned A/C back on and it gradually returned. I hooked up my gauges and was seeing about 45psi low at idle; the high side needle was oscillating very rapidly but was centered at around 260psi.
I'm pretty certain that the clatter/chatter noise is coming from the compressor and not from the belt tensioner or something like that. I assume my compressor is on its way out, but I'm looking for advice on anything I can do to verify that before I replace it. I haven't seen the gauge needle bouncing like that before - what might cause it to do this?
Thanks for any help!
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Isaac Roorda
Pella, Iowa
one or more broken suction reeds- very common-
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The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......
Thanks for the info. What can I do to verify this before I replace the compressor?
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Isaac Roorda
Pella, Iowa
Does the compressor hub (not pulley) turn very easily- little or no resistance? Are there stainless steel chips in the orifice tube screen? both are positive indicators of suction reed failure..
-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......
I'll pop the belt off and see how easily the compressor turns. Opening the system to check the orifice tube screen will have to wait until I can get the car into my friend's shop again - probably next week. Thanks very much for the info.
EDIT: nevermind, I suppose I can spin the compressor hub without pulling the belt. I'll take a look tonight.
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Isaac Roorda
Pella, Iowa
Edited: Tue July 02, 2013 at 9:32 AM by ijroorda
Not really an auto a/c guru here, I do commercial and residential. Is it possible he pulled some/lot of the oil out when he recovered, and just put refrigerant back in, less the needed oil?
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Don't take life seriously... Its not permanent.
Edited: Tue July 02, 2013 at 9:40 AM by MrBillPro
No- can only do that with a/c running and sucking refrig out the liquid line discharge pressure port...
-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......
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