Year: 1993
Make: Ford
Model: Explorer
Engine Size: 4.0
Refrigerant Type: 134
I've had enough of trying to cool this Explorer in the summer. It overheats at idle despite a new (OEM) fan clutch, 11-blade fan, new water pump and hoses, heater core bypass, new radiator, several different coolant formulas, and of course ensuring the condenser is clean. It just can't take North Texas with the AC on.
I'm going with an electric Chevy HHS fan that the Explorer club assures me fits with minor modifications. Do y'all have any suggestions on controllers for it? I'd like something that monitors coolant temp, and kicks on with the AC switch, but (ideally) turns off when I'm moving fast enough. Can't find one for less than $300 so far, and that's way more than my budget can handle.
EDIT: Just occurred to me that a thermostat-controlled switch along with an AC-on switch would do the trick in town, and if I could figure out a way to cut all current to the fan when the auto trans shifts in to OD, that might do the trick.
Edited: Sun May 19, 2013 at 3:49 PM by Minx
I use an adjustable thermostat
adjustable thermostat
2 diodes, and a relay to control my fan on my toyota truck.
Doesn't do anything for speed, but will turn the fan on depending on temperature (you control the temp).
Basically the thermostat and the AC clutch will trip the relay for the fan. Diodes are used so to isolate the controls
+ ------- thermostat ------ diode - >|--------*- relay control-----Ground
AC clutch---------------diode->|---------------/
-------------------------
Ed
SoCal
I use that controller on my street/ race car. I use the ac trigger to the unit as the remote turn on by a switch. Been using it for awhile and no issues. Running 2 fans with it. Easy to install.
Nothing more efficient than an engine driven fan, electrical fans consume about three times the energy. Driving in city traffic is when you need the most fan loads, and this is when the alternator is least capable of producing that kind of power. Driving 70 mph on the interstate, fan load is minimized due to the windmilling effect.
With problems like this, just dump that fan clutch and find a fixed fan capable of handling the engine speed and really solved problems like yours. Simple and effective and in my own test, didn't make a bit of difference in fuel economy.
Ha, sit in an engineering conference, we have to get better fuel economy, what should we do. Some idiot comes up with picking on all things like that fan that even under worse case conditions can only save about 1/3 HP. Yes, some engineers are idiots. Then severe loads on the alternator, and a bunch of electronics added for fan control even introducing more problems for the consumer. KISS is the word they use for that.
Nick
Only problem with my setup is that I have the engine pulled back 5 inches in my car. I do not see a super long fan spacer or the idea of having to make a shroud for this setup. Mechanical is better YES, BUT not always an option in every case. Especially since I put the blower on it. There is barely enough room for the fans.
Edited: Fri May 24, 2013 at 12:56 AM by Toddc72
It you think you have a problem, try to add an engine driven fan to a FWD vehicle with the engine sitting sideways.
All I could do with these was to mount a thermistor at the mid point of the radiator set to click at 160*F, then redesign the control circuit. Particular with engines using the ETC for fan control. Another stupid idea where in traffic, the engine temperature would vary between 195 tp 235*F resulting in constant thermal cycling in particular on an engine with an aluminum head sitting on a cast iron block. Aluminum expands at a seven times greater rate than cast iron stressing the heck out of it.
With the mid radiator tank thermistor, fan would kick on at 160*F and the thermostat would maintain a constant 195*F for much long engine life and better AC cooling. But should we really have to do this?
Not to displeased with my new Cruze, has a PCM controlled electronic thermostat, maintains a constant 220*F, should learn what you are buying, then maybe they would change.
I was researching this very subject to control the Volvo fan I installed on my project truck a while back. That Painless box is a fancy-ass PWM controller. PWM controllers are certainly nice, but not the most economical. The two that I liked the most were:
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