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YORK it suitable for R134 ?

awg on Sat February 02, 2013 12:20 AM User is offline

Year: 1969
Make: Jaguar
Model: 420G
Country of Origin: Australia


The Jaguar 420G had a York compressor, designed for R12.

Are these suitable for R134, or is it the case their seal design means they will inherently lose a R134 charge much quicker than a Sanden ?

I would prefer to keep the York for originality, but not if it wont hold a charge.

Am doing a new installation on a non A/C car and installing new hoses, condensor, evaporator.

( I have a correct rebuilt York )

Advice from pros has been to use a Sanden. R12 is not an option

Edited: Sat February 02, 2013 at 12:22 AM by awg

NickD on Sat February 02, 2013 8:58 AM User is offline

Could have the same question since I have a York. Does have a sump where in theory at least, the lubrication is not cycled through the system.

Other question question I had, good the expansion valve and tube and fin condenser handle R-134a. In doing research, Pace Arrow said GM installed the AC system, GM said Pace Arrow installed it.

Rather than experimenting, just stuck with R-12, it works well.

Whoops, you are from Australia, hope someone else here can answer your question, you don't have a choice.

Edited: Sat February 02, 2013 at 9:00 AM by NickD

ice-n-tropics on Mon February 04, 2013 9:07 PM User is offline

G'day mate,
Use a SD7H15.
Yorks fail for several reasons:
1)High vibration breaks/strips the mounting hardware or throws the belt into the fan and smashes the radiator.
2) Vib increases the shaft eccentric runout in the front bearing and the seal dances a jig like a banshee. York/CCI face seal should be flat within a couple of Helium light bands, therefore CCI made a external felt chamber to catch all the leaking oil.
Correct rebuild is new front bearing or the seal will soon fail again.
Non A/C car will ride low on the heavy York mounting side of the engine because the respective front suspension spring is not chosen for heavy bracket + York weight w/ heavy clutch.

Isentropic Efficiency=Ratio of Theoretical Compression Energy/Actual Energy. How To Air Condition Your Hot Rod

Edited: Tue February 05, 2013 at 8:34 AM by ice-n-tropics

NickD on Tue February 05, 2013 7:58 AM User is offline

Well, you do know if its running when it is sitting next to you in a motorhome. Added a lot of insulation to that cover to quiet it down a tad. Definitely changed the idler pulley bearing in mine, that also takes a beating.

But what about converting these to R-134a? Should one take it all apart and pour PAG into that sump? Of course you have to change the receiver and perhaps play with that expansion valve. Then that tube and fin condenser.

Wife's cure is to close some of those 8 vents when it gets too cold. Ha, just say, let me switch it off, motorhomes, well insulated really don't that hot inside. Can switch it off, and crack open that rear top vent. By doing that, can even hear the radio.

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