The outside fan is responsible for transferring the heat from your home to the outside air. If the fan on the outside unit doesnÃ¢ÂÂt run, proper heat transfer is not taking place and the air conditioning compressor may overheat and trip the safety overload. Worse yet, it may cause internal damage to the compressor.
So please help me and suggest a solution for this problem.
Sounds like an HVAC question and referring to the condenser fan, typically a 240VAC motor, split phase capacitor run.
Mine is 28 years old now, every spring, have to remove it, take it apart to clean and lubricate it, even had to replace the spade lug terminals a couple of times, test the run capacitor for capacitance and the DF factor. Is in parallel with compressor fed by a 24V AC solenoid contactor with SPDT contacts that also get dirty. Check the sleeve bearing on it, so far, good if kept well oiled. Condenser fins also have to be cleaned. Do the same with the blower motor. Takes about four hours.
I've had the outside AC condenser fan go bad on mine a couple of times in the 24 years I've lived here (33 year old place). My fan motor bearings just got too worn/dusty/bad, too much resistance.
I just replaced the condenser fan in my 1985 standalone ice machine a few weeks ago, could get it spinning manually for a while, but just too much dust over the years.
Hi Bro, Nice to meet you and thanks for your reply to post this suggestion.
Hi Cuss, Thanks to post this. Have a nice day.
Our last electrical motor repair shop closed a couple of years ago, guy that was running it was in his 80's. Could pick up new sleeve bearings for around 50 cents each, but not there anymore. These are not even easy to find on the net, then you have to mic the old size to find the equivalent. Would just pop out the old ones and match them up.
For my made in China blower motor, found metric inch sealed ball bearings made in the USA to replace the crappy ones in there. At least they varnished the stator windings in mine. Didn't on my son's, high speed windings were all shorted out in less than a year.
All this stuff is made in China now, and all crap, neighbor just spend $8,500 bucks to replace his entire HVAC system, only six years old. Could have helped him with that, but he didn't want to bother me.
Was thinking about updating my 27 year old system, would if I could find a brand new Made in the USA 27 year old system, seeing nothing but crap today and at outrageous prices.
Thanks for replying.Have a nice day
Ha, my son is becoming quite the expert as everyone in his neighborhood has the same HVAC contractor and York furnace with this dual pressure switch failure. Since I didn't bring my hand vacuum pump along, just sucked lightly on both nipples with my mouth with an ohmmeter across the contacts. Ohmmeter was going crazy, dirty contacts.
This thing monitors both the blower motor and vent motor suction, can't really short it out to get the furnace working. Microcontroller knows this switch has to be open when heat is called for. Then and only then applies voltage to the vent motor, waits a couple of seconds, then this switch must close. So if you start off with a shorted switch on this sequence, will get an error code, but can get the furnace started by emulating the sequence. Inconvenient at night or away from work.
HVAC contractor, only a mile away does sell this switch for 15 bucks, but charges 150 bucks to come out an install it, son saves his neighbors 150 buck, very easy to change, one screw, to slip on hoses, and two spade terminals.
My son is on his second one now, Made in China. My Goodman has been more reliable because it employs two separate switches. Haven't opened up this compound switch yet, sealed in plastic. Suggested we change his to the separate switches.
Looked up this switch on the internet as I though 15 bucks was high for this POS switch, see they are in the 35-85 buck range, someone is getting rich.
What really annoys me about practically all these high efficient furnaces is they mount the control board on the blower housing. Have your thermostat, compressor, humidifier, all those sensors and motors above wires to remove to remove that control board. Just so you can remove the blower motor to oil the bearings. What idiot came up with this stupid idea? If you don't remove and tape all these wires aside, risk the sharp edges.
On my old furnace, used a military type of connector so only had to disconnect that, remove two screws, so I could slide out the blower motor for maintenance. Was thinking about mounting a junction box on the side of this new furnace with the control board in there, and only running the four blower motor with a connector down there. But haven't gotten around to that, yet.
Regardless as to how good your filter is, always find debris inside the blower motor blocking the all important air flow resulting in overheating the motor. And those bearing do need lubricating. Could manage that mass amount of wires would deter the average person. But you find this in all this new stuff, what's going on in this crazy world?
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