Engine Size: 2.0
Refrigerant Type: 134a
Ambient Temp: 85
Pressure Low: 110
Pressure High: 110
Country of Origin: United States
Hi all long time, no post. Up until today everything has been running super cold. Then this afternoon -no cooling, check and no compressor turning. Pulled connector from clutch and only see trace voltage
One other interesting note: when I pulled jumper off cycling switch I still had 13.87 v at the WOT relay. I thought that the cycling switch would cut power ...
Maybe my brain has melted from lack of good A/C
I thought a Focus used a CCRM module for a/c control-- that is usually what goes bad..
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......
Update: Pull relay panel and double check wiring power all over the place. Wire that leaves panel is green with blue stripe wire at compressor is green with yellow. transition happens somwhere at the kickback diode ( located only GOD nows where ). Still suspect a broken wire I run jumper from output of relay to coil. Still no pull in.
cut the connector at the compressor ( hoping for a bad pigtail ) splice the wiring to give me a good point to connect and measure at.
Found I DO have power at pigtail ! then I checked coil resistance ~ none .... .
I was SURE it was my test points that were leading me not to read anything.
Looks like the coil took a dump. I am going to replace clutch assy complete in vehicle rather than break open a well working system.
I'll keep ya posted.
Just wondering, what would cause the coil to fail ?
Could I be looking at a dead/dying compressor that killed it ?
My thinking is if compressor is going it would more likely be taking out the friction surfaces, right ?
I hate like hell to pull whole system apart to replace compressor,o tube and drier if the only problem is a 100$ clutch job.
Well that was the easiest fix ever !
Still have no idea where the diode is but when I pulled the relay and did a diode check on the wiring I got what I consider to be good numbers (~ 500 ohms one way and Mohms the other - if memory serves .)
The old coil had indeed given up the ghost, the bearing on the pulley seems the culprit. The seal from the bearing was flopping around in there. Once I pulled all the old parts off and cleaned up the grease from bearing everything new went right on. Took 2 tries to get the correct shims for gap, it is .028 as close as I can get with feeler gauges. Pressures look good , vent temps are back to the 40's life is good.
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