Year: 1991
Make: Honda
Model: Accord
Engine Size: 2.2L
Refrigerant Type: R-134A
Ambient Temp: NA
Pressure Low: NA
Pressure High: NA
Hi I charged my ac system last year without checking if there was leaks, The R134a was all gone within 3 days. Today I looked around and saw that I had some oily crud around the condensor fittings, Here are some pics, you can even see the shiny metal where I rubbed the oil off:
So I thought I found my leak But when I looked a little but closer the bottom right hand corner of the condensor had a lot and I mean a lot of the oily crud, is it leaking from the O-Rings or is it the condensor getting it over everything?
I'll try to get a pic of the condensor tomorrow If you guys need it.
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1991 Honda Accord 173,000 Miles
Edited: Thu March 22, 2012 at 7:20 PM by curtie94
Leaking out in 3 days will be easy to find with an electronic leak detector. Do you know if the system was properly converted?
I did the conversion myself last summer, I bought a kit that came with oil and the fittings that go over the old fittings. Thats all I used.
I called my local ac shop and told them about the stop leak and everything and they said that they could flush the system check for leaks and 1lb of freon all for $82.95. Does this sound right?
And will the stop leak that is in the system ruin it? Thats what i've been told on carjunkys forum. It was the $5 bottle at walmart.
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1991 Honda Accord 173,000 Miles
Just wondering if the stop leak I was using is a sealer or a hardener. It is this one null
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1991 Honda Accord 173,000 Miles
That can says "o-rings, gaskets and seals" on the label, which means it's not the hardening sealer that does serious damage.
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I've saved hundreds on service by spending thousands on tools.
That is a relief and I also found out why it didn't work. My condenser leaks and the can says it will not stop condenser leaks. Will it hurt it to leave the sealer in there or should I flush the system before I fix the leak then recharge?
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1991 Honda Accord 173,000 Miles
It would be best to flush, but be sure not to leave any solvent residue behind. The "death kit" is not a proper conversion. At the very least you should take the compressor off of the car, drain the oil out of it and replace with new ester oil, and replace the receiver-drier. Use new o-rings for any connection you take apart. If the condenser is leaking at the fitting, usually that is just that the o-ring has hardened and doesn't seal. But look closely at both parts for any corrosion on the surfaces that touch the o-ring, that will cause leaks also.
I was looking on JC whitney and I found a condenser, Accumulator, and o-rings for $74.71. I was then thinking about having someone pull vacuum for me then I would fill it with r134a from walmart. First I called my local shop and they told me that it won't hold vacuum, so you have to fill it at the same time, I think they just want business. So I called the Honda Dealer and they said 90 bucks to pull a vacuum then I could fill it myself, I also called another dealer around and they said $55. I think I'll try to find someone I know with a vacuum pump. Could I use a brake vacuum pump.
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1991 Honda Accord 173,000 Miles
Use the proper vacuum pump. Do you have an Autozone nearby?
no i have a napa and parts plus and vip
would I need a set of gauges as well to pull vacuum? The refrigerant comes with a gauge but for pressure.
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1991 Honda Accord 173,000 Miles
Edited: Mon April 02, 2012 at 6:56 PM by curtie94
how about some thing like this pump? http://www.ebay.com/itm/AIR-VENTURI-TYPE-VACUUM-PUMP-R134A-R22-CONNECTOR-AC-A-C-/320880444571?hash=item4ab5f7049b&item=320880444571&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr#ht_1582wt_1037
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1991 Honda Accord 173,000 Miles
The air-powered venturi pumps do not produce anywhere near a complete vacuum. A motor-driven mechanical pump is essential. See if your parts stores have a "loaner" program where you put down enough money to pay for it but then you get it all back when you return it. You need a gauge manifold so you can evacuate from both sides at once, and then switch over to charge without disconnecting the fittings from the car. The shrader valves in the car fittings are not designed to retain a vacuum, the shop was telling you the truth about needing to charge right after evacuating.
Edited: Tue April 03, 2012 at 8:00 PM by mk378
can I rent gauge manifold as well? If not how much are they,I may need them later anyways.I forgot I also have a bond autoparts.
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1991 Honda Accord 173,000 Miles
im going to talk with my auto teacher and see if he has any connections with a pump an gauges.
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1991 Honda Accord 173,000 Miles
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