Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum (Archives)

DontKnowSquat on Thu March 08, 2012 9:20 AM

Year: 2000
Make: Dodge
Model: Caravan
Engine Size: 3.3
Refrigerant Type: R134a
Country of Origin: United States

Compressor locked up on me twice. Is this a sure sign of the compressor going bad? It was working fine then one day during a long highway trip it locked up and it started smoking up the serpentine belt and the vents blew warm air. I immediately shut it off so as not to damage the belt. I turned it back on an hour later to check it and it was working fine. A couple of weeks later it happened again. I stopped using the A/C to prevent any more damage although it does not lock up immediately when one turns it on. It seems to locks up only after extended usage.

If someone can confirm that it is the compressor so I can buy a new one at a good deal along with the other components that maintain the warranty. Thank you!

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DIY'er for life!!

HECAT on Thu March 08, 2012 10:42 AM

Pressures, temperatures, service history?

Sounds like as the high pressure rises, the belt is unable to carry the load required. May not be removing the necessary heat, check and clean the air flow path thru the heat exchanger stack, check for proper fan operation, replace the belt, etc. Also could be a symptom of being overcharged. Usually a lock up is caused by internal compressor failure, and these will not restart.

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HECAT: www.hecatinc.com You support the Forum when you consider www.ackits.com for your a/c parts.

FLUSHING TECHNICAL PAPER vs2.pdf 

DontKnowSquat on Thu March 08, 2012 3:28 PM

Low side 37 PSI, High side 210 PSI. Temp at center vent in cabin 33-F@1100 rpm. The outside temperature is 85-F. The belt is fairly new, (Gates serpentine upgrade), the fan is operating very well. How can one tell if she's overcharged? I did charge it about a year ago and the last A/C service prior to that was by Chrysler, (warranty replacement of a leaking evaporator core in 2006). It's been five months since it locked up on me, (she hasn't locked up since but then again I haven't used the A/C in several months). QUESTION: What is the air flow path thru the heat exchanger stack?




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DIY'er for life!!

Edited: Sun March 11, 2012 at 2:52 PM by DontKnowSquat

DontKnowSquat on Sun March 11, 2012 2:36 PM

Another issue. I hear a weird whirling noise in the cabin only when I turn on the A/C as if the blower is dying, but it's not the blower. It's almost as if the compressor is having to deal with more stress. The A/C is working great, (just look at the working pressures I posted), but it sounds like something is going to happen. Can anyone tell me if these are the signs of a compressor on it's last dying days?

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DIY'er for life!!

NickD on Mon March 12, 2012 7:17 AM

Another minor inconvenience caused by protecting the ozone layer that never was a problem was switching to R-134a and PAG oil. PAG is highly hygroscopic with the inconvenience of completely flushing out the system, draining the compressor, replacing the accumulator or receiver and putting the system together dry. Draw a deep vacuum, then inject the PAG only from a metal can to assure it remains dry.

Any moisture in the system creates an acid that corrodes the inside of the compressor. With a cold engine, should be effortlessly be able to hand turn your compressor, if you feel any binding, your compressor is history. Now they are saying R-134a is causing global warming. Am about ready to throw in the towel.

mk378 on Mon March 12, 2012 10:27 AM

Does it have dual air or front only? If you have dual air you should run the rear fan once in a while to clear the oil that can pool up in the rear evaporator.

DontKnowSquat on Mon March 12, 2012 1:39 PM

Quote
Originally posted by: mk378
Does it have dual air or front only? If you have dual air you should run the rear fan once in a while to clear the oil that can pool up in the rear evaporator.

Front only. Thanks!



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DIY'er for life!!

HECAT on Tue March 13, 2012 1:34 PM

Quote
Originally posted by: DontKnowSquat
Low side 37 PSI, High side 210 PSI. Temp at center vent in cabin 33-F@1100 rpm. The outside temperature is 85-F. The belt is fairly new, (Gates serpentine upgrade), the fan is operating very well. How can one tell if she's overcharged? I did charge it about a year ago and the last A/C service prior to that was by Chrysler, (warranty replacement of a leaking evaporator core in 2006). It's been five months since it locked up on me, (she hasn't locked up since but then again I haven't used the A/C in several months). QUESTION: What is the air flow path thru the heat exchanger stack?

Pressure and temp look good. The only way to check the charge is to recover and recharge by weight. The air flow path thru the stack would be debris accumulations between the fins of the condenser, radiator, oil cooler (if equipped), etc. Sometimes a lot of "stuff" can accumulate between the heat exchangers (stack) causing the inability to reject heat and high head pressure.

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HECAT: www.hecatinc.com You support the Forum when you consider www.ackits.com for your a/c parts.

FLUSHING TECHNICAL PAPER vs2.pdf 

DontKnowSquat on Tue March 13, 2012 8:41 PM

Hey thanks HECAT.

I don't have a recovery system so that I can't do. But unfortunately, my A/C is now dead. The compressor turns but it blows hot air. No more lock. As I had posted earlier a mysterious hum started and in only a matter of days no A/C. So I answered my own question.....a new Denso compressor, expansion valve, and accumulator is en-route to my house. The problem is r143a....were to get it at a reasonable price.....so far, no-were.

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DIY'er for life!!

Edited: Tue March 13, 2012 at 8:42 PM by DontKnowSquat

HECAT on Wed March 14, 2012 4:31 PM

Better make sure the compressor didn't grind something up internally and feed it into the condenser. An autopsy of the failed compressor, lines, and a hard back blow thru the condenser will usually produce the evidence.

(IMHO) Not doing something about the debris, and having a clean and dry restart point to fill with fresh oil; is most often the reason for multiple compressors.

Buy your 134a now! I think its only going up.

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HECAT: www.hecatinc.com You support the Forum when you consider www.ackits.com for your a/c parts.

FLUSHING TECHNICAL PAPER vs2.pdf 

DontKnowSquat on Wed March 14, 2012 5:30 PM

Quote
Originally posted by: HECAT
Better make sure the compressor didn't grind something up internally and feed it into the condenser. An autopsy of the failed compressor, lines, and a hard back blow thru the condenser will usually produce the evidence. Will do!

Quote
Originally posted by: HECAT
(IMHO) Not doing something about the debris, and having a clean and dry restart point to fill with fresh oil; is most often the reason for multiple compressors. I agree 100%. I also press suction line filters on the new compressor as an extra precaution. Cheap insurance.Quote
Originally posted by: HECAT
Buy your 134a now! I think its only going up. The best I can do for now is $14.50 lbs, (with tax and shipping). Is that a good price for a diy'er like me?

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DIY'er for life!!

DontKnowSquat on Wed March 14, 2012 5:54 PM

Where can I buy Airsept A/C Inline Filter Kit P/N 67575??

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DIY'er for life!!