Engine Size: 5.9
Refrigerant Type: R134A
Ambient Temp: 90
Pressure Low: 35
Pressure High: 200
Country of Origin: United States
i put som 134a in to my unit every thingseemed fine as soon as i excelerated the motor the clutch disengages in ca rengage it by push ing it wit a screwdriver but as soon as i excelerate the motor again the it kicks out again which gives me reading of high on the low sde and low one the high side does any one know why?
Edited: Tue June 14, 2011 at 9:51 PM by boilerdog
The clutch gap is too wide (from wear), or the clutch coil is weak.
You only need to replace the clutch coil, not the whole compressor.
where can you buy a clutch coil
Try closing the gap first. Take the clutch plate off and remove some of the shim washers. Gap should be no more than .020 inches but it can be hard to measure. Really as small as you can get it without it dragging when the clutch is off will work. To check for drag, remove belt and spin the pulley by hand.
I removed clutch and took out last washer it stays engaged when the motor excelerates but it kicks in and out. thing i need a new clutch.
It's called a Cycling Compressor Orifice Tube system for a reason. If it's cold inside, it's working normally. When the engine revs up the compressor can pump more leading to the pressure switch cycling it off if it does too much.
I really think this gentleman is dying to replace that compressor no matter what. We just saved him several hundered dollars from having to buy a new clutch or compressor, and he still wants to replace this thing.
Excessive cycling is typically caused by a low refrigerant charge, or overcharge if the HPCO is kicking out. Need to put some gagues on it and post back. Or you can replace the clutch or compressor, and when the compressor still cycles same as before, you can put some gauges on it and post back.
I took MK378 advise and rode it around it works fine. had ordered clucth from ebay for 67.00 but will just hold on to it since I am down to no shimes. but for now i'm leaving as is.
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