Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum (Archives)

me4get on Mon January 10, 2011 7:11 PM

Year: 2002
Make: Chevy
Model: Trailblazer
Engine Size: 4.2
Refrigerant Type: r134a
Ambient Temp: 0
Pressure Low: 0
Pressure High: 0
Country of Origin: United States

How easy is it to change the pulley bearing on the Sanden TRSA12 and which bearing is the right one for this compressor?
Are any special tools needed? Is as easy as this page says?trailblazer clutch bearing


Is this the right bearing? Bearing

Edited: Mon January 10, 2011 at 10:45 PM by me4get

TRB on Mon January 10, 2011 9:31 PM

Good chance but would have to double check as your listed vehicle uses a TRSA12.

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NickD on Tue January 11, 2011 10:40 AM

What is the difference between a TRSA12 and a TRSA12?

Though only GM was peening in that double roll bearing, must be like a contagious disease that spreads rapidly. I had problems peening, that cast iron ages like glass and tends to chip off rather than form.

Some guys use child safe paste, or Loctite makes a bearing glue. Didn't like either, but did have space to cut in a grove for a good old fashion retainer ring like they use to use. Couldn't find one that size around town and didn't want to order one off the net with a long wait and a zillion buck S&H charge. So ended up drilling three countersunk tapped holes for #10 flathead screws space 120 degree apart with the lip of the heads overlapping the outer race of the bearing. Also used Locktite on the threads so the screws won't fall out, it's solid.

Another thing is to pop off the seals of the new bearing and ask, where's the grease, clean off what's inside and use Wolf's Read Bearing grease, last forever. If I see the bearing is Made in China, won't even buy it, but search for a good one. Lot of work to change these dang things, and would love to spend 15 minutes in a dark ally with the guy that approved of peening in the bearing.

Compressors use to be always mounted on top away from the salted roads, and was extremely easy to change a bearing, but those bearings were made in the USA, well greased, and never went bad. Today they are dragging on the ground, and miserable to change.

TRB on Tue January 11, 2011 12:03 PM

That would be the correct bearing for the vehicle listed.

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NickD on Wed January 12, 2011 7:24 AM

Which bearing is that, Tim? Back in the good old days, when I was buying bearings from major US suppliers, reps told me, any bearing I personally needed could get them for free. Did get a complete set when I was restoring my Model A, but really didn't use that many bearings. Anything else, I didn't need, they knew how to make bearings back then and they lasted forever. But today, a major problem with bearings, and now that I need them, had to up the limit on my credit card.

TRB on Wed January 12, 2011 9:49 AM

The one in the link the OP posted.

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ice-n-tropics on Wed January 26, 2011 4:13 PM

Hint:
If much force is applied to one of the bearing races while the other race is restrained the balls dent the races (Brinell) and run noisy with shortened life. When you hold the bearing and pulley in your hand and spin it, the Brinell can be felt.
Press against the restrained race. Sometimes this requires milling a access hole with a Bridgeport or Drimmel so that press pins can contact only the restrained race.
hotrodac

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Isentropic Efficiency=Ratio of Theoretical Compression Energy/Actual Energy.
AMAZON.com: How To Air Condition Your Hot Rod

NickD on Thu January 27, 2011 9:18 AM

Is there a choice when removing a pulley bearing then to put considerable force on the inner race? Far less damage would be done by using a press than a sledge hammer. But for the most part, that bearing becomes a throwaway part just by the act of removing it. Wasn't that way when a retaining was used, very little force was required to remove it.

First job is to remove all that rust between the outer race and the edge of the pulley housing, easy if you have a machine tool lathe.

ice-n-tropics on Thu January 27, 2011 1:32 PM

Nick,
Where there is a will, there is a way.
E.G., mill 2 1/4" half moon access notches in the outer pulley bearing stop lip so that 1/4" push pins can contact the outer race, then press out the bearing by pressing against the outer restrained race. That way, Brinelling is avoided.
hotrodac

-------------------------
Isentropic Efficiency=Ratio of Theoretical Compression Energy/Actual Energy.
AMAZON.com: How To Air Condition Your Hot Rod

NickD on Fri January 28, 2011 5:14 AM

What a strange lot we must be, talking about how to remove a pulley bearing without hurting it for reuse. Really don't know of any shops around here that would replace a starter bushing, alternator bearing, or the compressor pulley bearing. Because in theory at least, those bushings and bearings should last the life of those components, so might as well replace the entire unit.

Kind of true with just trying to buy an entire compressor clutch kit, for a few bucks more, can buy the entire compressor with a new clutch kit installed! And the bearing. In purchasing just the bearing, a dealership is the last place to go, have to go to a bearing specialty store. Tim must be an exception to this rule.

Being as frugal as I am, can spend an entire Saturday removing all the bearings from these single belt drive systems. Find very little rock hard grease, that is why I like to call them limited lubricated bearings. Change the brushes in starters and alternators as well, the way most are designed, once the brushes wear, will either grind up the commutators or the slip rings for even more problems. Have to throw in the towel for a water pump, and definitely for these way overpriced fuel pumps in a tomato can. But getting very difficult to just buy the brushes. When my wife says lets go car shopping automatically start looking for a trash can large enough to put it in.

Spend more time searching for driveshaft bearings for my Volvo sterndrive, with the same number, found ones with either plastic retainers, crap, spot welded steel retainers, better, but still crap, and finally SKF's Made in the USA with riveted heavy steel retainers. Were far more expensive, but really a chore to replace those bearings. But that is what is in there now. Maybe they will last a lot longer than the pieces of crap they put in there. But the grease or lack of grease in even these bearings were sparse. So cleaned them up and put new grease in them.

Just seems like when you buy anything today, get a lot more headaches than pleasure.