Just analyzed and replaced a leaky evap on this car--second intrepid this summer- 5th dodge evap replace this year.....My sniffer never did go off on this one- neither in drain tube, nor in vents---tried for over an hour- no hits...but drain tube showed dye inside it, and frame rail was splattered with dye--I usually hesitate to claim evap leak without a sniffer hit--but the dye does not lie--so quoted the job-- owner agreed- Upon removing duct work that goes under console- there was massive dye and refrigerant oil inside the ductwork- sure makes you feel better and you are doing the right thing when you see the inevitable evidence.....replaced heater core at same time-- just pulled the right side of dash back- only have to unplug three things- These are money makers- especially when owner was sitting on a quote of $1080....I did it in under 4 hours......give me more of these-- I know there are tons out there. when folks ask me how best to identify and evap on a Dodge-- I always reply-- go around to rear of vehicle--look at emblem- if it says Dodge, Chrysler, Plymouth, or Jeep, then chances are it has an evap leak....
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......
was there a particular supplier that made all of those evaporators?
Edited: Tue September 14, 2010 at 10:19 PM by 98audiA4
Many years ago, we made multiple 'adapters' for many vehicles that allowed a test on the evaporator as a stand alone unit. All in all they were very successful. Today, there are manufacturers that produce these 'adapters', however, ours were not nearly as expensive.
It is necessary to flush the evap prior to testing. Excessive lubricant tend to stabilize in the evap and can actually 'mask' a possible leak. Once the evap was cleaned, the 'adapters' were attached and the evap was evacuated...then tested for a vac leak. If it passed this test, we then charged the evap with refrigerant. Actually we used a 30lb can with a heater blanket attached and simply opened a charging hose. The extra heat/pressure generated by the blanket normally would indicate almost any size leak.
But sometimes, when all else fails....one must fall back on experience and 'go for it'.....but it is always gratifying when evidence of a leak is actually found.
The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.
Adapter kit for flushing and vacuum testing evaps.
I would like to throw one more thing in the pot on the chryslers and Jeeps...... If the vehicle has been charged a few times and dye put in it more than a few times you can usally get a real strong smell of the dye inside the vehicle or out the vents when the blower is turned on kind of a distinct smell now i will say that I usally dont go completely off of that..... still use my yokogawa.....
If you put more than one prescribed dye dose in a system; it creates 2 problems. First, the few ounces of oil commonly used as the carrier in a dye "shot" will begin to overcharge the system with excessive oil. Second, in higher concentrations the dye itself is considered as a contaminant and will begin to degrade the lubricity of the oil.
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