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A/C condensor

indianporfavor on Sun September 05, 2010 9:31 PM User is offline

Year: 1996
Make: GMC
Model: Yukon
Engine Size: 5.7L
Refrigerant Type: R134a
Country of Origin: United States

I was replacing the a/c hose on my 96 yukon, and where the hose attaches to the condensor it seems like it was cross threaded. it took lots of force to get the "nut" off of the line going to the condensor, and when we finally got it off all of the threads were ruined. so i have 2 questions

first, is there a special way to get the hose unattached from the condensor?

second, is it possible to replace the threaded poiece on the end of the condensor? or do i need to replace the whole thing?

thanks for the help

GM Tech on Sun September 05, 2010 9:40 PM User is offline

Welcome to galvanic corrosion--two dissimiliar metals mated together and allow some corrosion to begin-- been there done that-the aluminum sticks to the steel nut that isn't plated very good..- what I do is keep several line ends around, that will thread onto a good condenser-- then I use the spare end to basically tap the threads back onto the condenser-- once that is done, the I attach the new hose--The last thing I want to do is to ruin the new hose-- so I let the spare line end take the blunt force- if the spare line thread does not work, then yes a condenser replacement is in order.

The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

ice-n-tropics on Mon September 06, 2010 12:50 PM User is offline

PAG oil on the threads will really screw it up next time, because PAG absorbs and holds moisture between the dissimilar metals and promotes galvanic corrosion.

Isentropic Efficiency=Ratio of Theoretical Compression Energy/Actual Energy. How To Air Condition Your Hot Rod

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