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Durango blues

htguru on Tue August 10, 2010 7:54 PM User is offlineView users profile

Year: 2001
Make: Dodge
Model: Durango
Engine Size: 5.9L
Refrigerant Type: 134a
Ambient Temp: 85
Pressure Low: 42
Pressure High: 151
Country of Origin: United States

This has been a problem child before i inherited it, vehicle has both front and rear a/c. compressor, dryer, and front txv have been changed with brand new sanden equipment.

Rear a/c seems to be fine. front is lack luster at best with average center temp around 50* standing still at 1100 rpm.

I'm starting to think the blend door is either not working or not shutting all the way. causing some hot air from across the heater core. i wanna pull the dash, however the vehicle is my bosses wife's and needless to say neither of them have any patients whats so ever and really are not trying to hear that the dash has to come out.

the suction pressure seems to be within range, I'm just kinda not impressed with the high side only being 151 at idle maxes at about 175 at 2000 rpm. this is the second new compressor in a month. thought the first one went bad after install due to no a/c and loud howl after 1 day. turns out it leaked down due to o ring at filter dryer and the alternator bearing went bad (found out after 2nd new compressor was installed and howl was still there, see that will teach me to listen to bosses diagnosis :~p )

anyhow just checking to see if anyone has had any dealings with the damn vehicle. BTW it does have an electric fan and clutch fan both are working and intact.

iceman2555 on Tue August 10, 2010 9:00 PM User is offlineView users profile

This seems to be coming the norm question this year.
First, what occurred with the original compressor that required replacement?
Secondly, please post all repairs to this system and how they were accomplished, please use as much detail as possible.
The 'howl' of the Sanden after one day....strongly points to a total lack of lubricant. How much lube was added to the compressor and at what location was it added?
There are several suggestion for this repair, however, would like to postpone until a more complete detail of service is posted.

The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.
Thomas Jefferson

htguru on Tue August 10, 2010 9:17 PM User is offlineView users profile

actually the howl was unrelated, it was the alternator bearing. it just happened the next day after the compressor was installed. so the my boss just told me to replace it. so i did with another new one. that's when we found out it was the alternator. should i have checked it before i changed it? yes i should have. but live and learn.

however the compressor came factory 7 ounces in it. as per the tag on the unit and it said to add another 3 ounces for rear a/c units which i did after completely flushing the system via the suction line. this included disconnecting all lines front and rear and using a flushing solution as i was unsure of oil level remaining in the system. all o rings and gaskets changed.

the original compressor the clutch craped out on it. My boss likes to spend money, so he ordered the complete kit from a local a/c shop. but even prior to the clutch the system sucked as far as temperature goes.

Edited: Tue August 10, 2010 at 9:21 PM by htguru

htguru on Tue August 10, 2010 9:29 PM User is offlineView users profile

sticker under the hood states the the unit requires .907kg for a charge. I'm not sure the label is the correct one for the truck as the truck is a r-title vehicle. reason i say this we have another durango out on the lot and it shows .85kg with front ac and 1.10kg with both. I've been up and down the service manual procedure for the truck. it states at 80* ambient outside should give me a center vent temp around 45* at 2000 rpm with a high side pressure around 200 - 250psi

I'm also seeing around a 35 to 40* temp drop across the condenser as well which i think should be close to what were looking for.

Edited: Tue August 10, 2010 at 9:31 PM by htguru

iceman2555 on Wed August 11, 2010 5:43 PM User is offlineView users profile

Considering the posted temp drop on the condenser and the stated high side pressure being a bit low...and the repair history of this vehicle/ first choice would be a condenser restriction.
Another issue....always mistrusted the fact that a compressor company stated that the compressor had a full charge of lube.....never trusted someone I did not know with one of the most important aspects of the repair. We always drain and replenish compressors with the correct amount and type of lube. Too much...too never knows for sure.
What type flush was utilized? If chemical is unknown, let us know the producing company and the method to flush.
Was the system charged utilizing a charge machine or charged by 'hand'? Seems the charge rate for a F/R system is 1.90 lbs (Mitchells Motors Info Systems). May check other sources to verify.....always preferred the factory info...but is this is suspect.....look elsewhere.
The expected pressure at 2000 rpm....considering the ambient temp...but how about the humidity where you are....this too plays and important part for correct system pressures. Also keep in mind that the factory pressure posting are for a properly charged system with a properly operating engine cooling system. If the condenser is restricted, this of course will alter these performance concerns. Personally believe there is a major issue with the condenser. It was stated that this was a 'r' title. Was the front clip part of the repair....were 'recycled' parts utilized in the repair?
Check the discharge line goes it being very results. Are you utilizing an infra red or laser heat gun? Not the best choice some times....have seen some serious issues with different coatings of metals vs plain metals. Seems the absorption of some coatings negates the effectiveness of the infra red....and may present problems with the laser. Prefer a good thermo coupler...nothing beats reaching out an touching.......
First insure the system is properly charged......forget pressures for a moment.....get it charged and do a complete temperature test of the results. Be sure to measure the outlet temp of the close to the firewall as possible. May need to insulate the temp gun to prevent heat source contamination.
Good luck!!!

The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.
Thomas Jefferson

Tennessee_Timmy on Thu August 12, 2010 8:44 AM User is offlineView users profile

For what it's worth:

The underhood sticker on my '01 (5.9L) reads 0.79kg / 1.11kg, SP-20 PAG oil.

The Chrysler service manual (page 24-4) does say 45F max vent at 80F ambient, at 1000 rpm. The corresponding pressure ranges are 25-35 LS and 200-300 HS.

Oil capacities and distribution (5.9 F&R) - Total 10.1 oz; drier - 1, condenser - 1, front evap - 2, rear evap - 1, compressor - drain and measure.

Hey, look, 100 posts! (and I still have to edit them more often than not ).

Good Luck 2 ya,

Edited: Thu August 12, 2010 at 9:05 AM by Tennessee_Timmy

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