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A/C Rebuild

Truckie117 on Fri July 30, 2010 8:40 PM User is offline

Year: 1999
Make: Chev
Model: Suburban K2500 4x4
Engine Size: 6.5
Refrigerant Type: 134
Ambient Temp: 85
Pressure Low: 0
Pressure High: 0
Country of Origin: United States

HI
I pulled my orifice tube and it was covered with black gunk no metal that I can see.
How do I tell if my compressor is good? I want to flush the components is it possible to flush the condenser or a waste of time.
I have rear A/C do I have to pull the expansion valve or can I just flush it ?
This all happened because the high side valve was leaking so I have to replace that or a whole new manifold set.
Any input appreciated.
Mike


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Chick on Fri July 30, 2010 10:52 PM User is offlineView users profile

compressor is shot, change the condenser, Accumulator, flush the rest.. and NO, never flush thru expansion devices...High side service ports are replaceable if they have the little ball valve in them...

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Truckie117 on Sat July 31, 2010 1:08 AM User is offline

That's what I thought. Is there a better compressor than the original? people talk about the sanden. What about the hose assembly can you flush the muffler in it?
Thanks
Mike

-------------------------
For My Fallen Brothers of 9/11

America Love it or Leave

Never forget Never forgive

Chick on Sat July 31, 2010 6:38 AM User is offlineView users profile

E-mail the guys qt Ackits.com and see if they have the Sanden or valeo/Seltic compressors for your application, they work great. No, do not flush lines with mufflers, replace them....

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Chick
Email: Chick

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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

70monte on Sat July 31, 2010 9:40 AM User is offline

That OT looked just like the one I pulled out of my 98 chevy K3500 about a month and a half ago. I replaced everything except the evaporator on it.

I just got done working on a 99 Suburban yesterday but the OT was perfectly clean so I only replaced the compressor and accumulator. I did not take apart any of the rear lines on this vehicle.

I used the Sanden compressor but have used the Seltec/Valeo compressors on two of my 98 chevy trucks. I bought mine through Ackits.com. When I ordered the compressor for this Sub, they were out of the Seltec compressors so I got the Sanden.

The high side on this sub had the shrader valve in it instead of the ball valve. You cannot flush through the muffler in the hose assembly. good luck.

Wayne

TRB on Sat July 31, 2010 11:30 AM User is offlineView users profile

Should have either of the 2 compressors available in a week or so. Have the Sanden in stock now.

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Truckie117 on Sun August 01, 2010 2:24 AM User is offline

Does that compressor hook up to the manifold hoses and bolt to the engine the same as OEM?


-------------------------
For My Fallen Brothers of 9/11

America Love it or Leave

Never forget Never forgive

70monte on Sun August 01, 2010 11:13 AM User is offline

Both the Seltec and Sanden compressors bolt to the stock AC mounting bracket on the truck and the manifold hoses bolt to both compressors just like stock.

The Seltec compressor is a direct bolt on with nothing extra needed.

The Sanden compressor may need to be installed with the provided 1/4" thick washers and possibly a longer belt. The way the body of this compressor is made, makes it come in very close contact with the mounting bracket the compressor sits in.

On the 99 Suburban that I just did, I was able to mount the Sanden compressor to the stock mounting bracket without using the 1/4" washers but it was very very close. Probably a hairs width between the compressor body and bracket. I did have the compressor bolted down to factory torque specs.

You could also slightly notch out the mounting bracket if you had to if you didn't want to use the washers. The bracket is aluminum and would be easy to do and you shouldn't have to remove much material.

Wayne

Truckie117 on Sun August 01, 2010 4:09 PM User is offline

Thanks that's great does anyone have the template for cutting the rear A/C box I read the post but there is no template. I hope to rebuild the entire a/c so its nice and chilly I want to flush front and rear evaporators out and replace the rear expansion valve.
Thanks
Mike

-------------------------
For My Fallen Brothers of 9/11

America Love it or Leave

Never forget Never forgive

70monte on Sun August 01, 2010 5:12 PM User is offline

I don't know if you have a subscription to alldata for your vehicle but its a pretty good resource and you would have access to all of the TSB's that apply to your vehicle which should have the template. I have a subscription to all of mine.

Wayne

yorled on Mon August 02, 2010 7:01 PM User is offline

Why should expansion devices not be flushed and why the muffler on a hose assembly cannot be flushed.What is it( the muffler)and where on the hose assembly is it ?

Truckie117 on Mon August 02, 2010 9:17 PM User is offline

It is the fat round device at the back of the suction line on the 1999 Suburban behind the compressor


-------------------------
For My Fallen Brothers of 9/11

America Love it or Leave

Never forget Never forgive

Edited: Mon August 02, 2010 at 9:31 PM by Truckie117

Truckie117 on Mon August 02, 2010 9:35 PM User is offline

Here is a photo of the manifold and muffler



-------------------------
For My Fallen Brothers of 9/11

America Love it or Leave

Never forget Never forgive

Edited: Mon August 02, 2010 at 9:37 PM by Truckie117

HECAT on Tue August 03, 2010 6:47 AM User is offline

Quote
Originally posted by: yorled
Why should expansion devices not be flushed and why the muffler on a hose assembly cannot be flushed.What is it( the muffler)and where on the hose assembly is it ?

Flushing through an expansion orifice impedes/negates the flush flow rate needed to effectively clean the component. You need a good open path for effective volume flushing. A small piece of debris stuck at the orifice would stop any flow and could not be pushed through. Even if you are successful at pushing solvent through the orifice, the next problem is that you will not be able to push the volume or dry air or nitrogen needed to dry out the component.

The muffler (can) in the line is a baffle, sometimes just staggered plates inside, sometime plates with holes, sometimes nothing. It is because of the unknown internal design, that makes flushing this device not recommended.

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FLUSHING TECHNICAL PAPER vs2.pdf 

yorled on Tue August 03, 2010 7:31 PM User is offline

Thanks for the info,that was a mouthful!!

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