Year: 96
Make: Camry
Model: LE
Engine Size: 2.2
Refrigerant Type: R134
My 96 Camry A/C cools normally for about 20 minutes, then begins to
lose its cooling effectiveness. When cooling ability diminishes I can also
sense a change in humidity, like when it rains.
Here's whats been replaced chasing this:
- New Denso Compressor(not a rebulit one)
-Evaporator
-Condensor
-Expansion Valve
-Filter/Dryer
-Pulled a vacuum on system and recharged
After all these repairs, issue remains. I then took to Toyota dealer and
had them try. They felt the Expansion Valve I already replaced was defective.
They replaced the valve and still not solved. Afterwards they said they found a
clog in the high pressure line and the Dryer which I had already replaced. They
replaced the Dryer and cleared the clogs(so they say). They gave me the car back
yesterday, used the car today and nothings changed. Cooling ability still diminishes
after 20 minutes or so. This car always had amazing A/C before this nightmare began.
I've dumped over $1300 on this....! If this wasn't such a great runniing car I would have
dumped it. I feel trapped, does anyone have a clue as to what could be wrong?
....Desperate.
-------------------------
...Bob
Pressure readings while it is cooling and when it is not could help diagnose your issues.
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Is the compressor still running when the air gets warm? You may have an electrical issue causing it to cut out rather than an issue with the refrigeration system.
Sounds more to me like evap freeze-up---how is your airflow out the vents when cooling diminishes? open hood when this happens-- is the low sie line frosty white? does it piss like a race horse when you shut system down? all signs of evap freeze-up..
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The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......
-------------------------
...Bob
Toyota dealer called me yesterday, they are still baffled with this thing. Can't understand
why it should blow cold for 15 or 20 minutes then lose effectiveness. They assured it was not
freezing up, not low on freon, no leaks and all parts have been replaced except the lines. Now they
say replaceing all lines "may help" but no guarantee. Another $1000....I can't deal with this.
They said the pressures get screwy when the cooling issus occurs. A/C works fine for first 10 minutes.
Really frustrated.....already dumped nearly $1700 in this thing!
HELP!!!!
-------------------------
...Bob
Parts changers. No talent hacks. And some more colorful terms I will not post here. A kilobuck to replace a perfectly good part? Uh huh.
You replaced the evaporator yourself yes?
That thermistor you are asking about is most likely the source of this issue. It senses the evaporator temperature, and reports this data to the A/C amplifier. The amplifier cycles the clutch off to prevent evaporator icing. There are several ways for this to become a problem, and the monkeys at the dealership should have caught each & every one of them when they replaced the TXV.
1) The thermistor may be failed part. It should be between 4600 and 5100 ohms @ 32f. This is tested with 4 inches of the thermistor in a water & ice mix.
2) The thermistor may have been placed wrong. It should be in contact with the evaporator core itself, down in the fins.
3) The thermistor may have be disconnected. It HAD to be disconnected to remove the evaporator box.
4) The thermistor may have been discarded with the old evaporator, and not replaced.
The monkeys should have checked the thermistor. A quick look with a DMM can save a second evaporator R&R
The monkeys should have SEEN a misplaced thermistor, and corrected it with the evaporator case on the bench.
The monkeys should have re-connected anything you missed connecting when they put the case back in.
The monkeys should have noticed this missing, essential part.
If the system cools normally, then drops off - with the compressor still turning... it is most likely icing the evaporator core.
B.
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"Among the many misdeeds of the British rule in India, history will look upon the act of depriving a whole nation of arms, as the blackest."
~ Mahatma Gandhi, Gandhi, An Autobiography, M. K. Gandhi, page 446.
Then the service "manager" is king of the monkeys.
Your Toyo is more than 10 years old. They have no interest in fixing it, but I bet they could offer you a nice trade in on it...
Perhaps you can find an independent shop that is an A/C or toyota specialist? Tell them your tale, and ask if they can check / replace the thermistor? Or another dealer in a nearby town?
B.
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"Among the many misdeeds of the British rule in India, history will look upon the act of depriving a whole nation of arms, as the blackest."
~ Mahatma Gandhi, Gandhi, An Autobiography, M. K. Gandhi, page 446.
Bob, Where are located? If your close I would be willing to help. I just like working on vehicles, and wouldn't charge you a dime. I am in Shreveport ,LA.
Edited: Wed July 21, 2010 at 5:46 PM by Bench
overflow tube ok?
I wish I could use stronger terms... screaming, intellectually challenged, aids infected, feces eating monkey parts changers.
A RUBBER HOSE you could not blow through? and they put it back on a customer's car?
IF they are telling you the truth, that hose should never have been put back on the vehicle. On rare occasions, rubber hoses fail internally. The inner liner becomes detached, and blocks flow. Or otherwise creates odd flow behaviour.
If you remove a hose that should flow freely and it does not, most mechanics would blow compressed air into it to see what was in it. The system is sealed. There is no way for odd things to get in there from outside. Once the line cleared, and nothing came out - every mechanic I know would have replaced the line. (and cut it open to see what the *%#@ that was)
I asked before - does the airflow from the vents slow down when the cooling deteriorates? The discharge air will be cold, but there will be less of it. Is this what is happening?
The insistence that the thermistor is not part of your car makes me doubt their honesty - or knowledge. The "clog" story smells too. A clogged high side will cause a high pressure event. Either a cycling on the high pressure cutout, or a popped relief valve.
You would be ahead of the game to buy / rent / borrow a set of gauges. It would really help to know the pressures when this system is running.
B.
-------------------------
"Among the many misdeeds of the British rule in India, history will look upon the act of depriving a whole nation of arms, as the blackest."
~ Mahatma Gandhi, Gandhi, An Autobiography, M. K. Gandhi, page 446.
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