Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum (Archives)

MHardee on Mon June 28, 2010 5:25 PM

Year: 1998
Make: Chevrolet
Model: Monte Carlo Z34
Engine Size: 3.8
Refrigerant Type: R134A
Ambient Temp: 98
Pressure Low: 40
Pressure High: 240
Country of Origin: United States

Had a compressor leaking at seals - ordered a compressor and Accumulator from Arizona Air, installed - pulled vacuum and charged. System cooled to 51 degrees at the vent - all is well. Start it back up today and air from vents is hot. (I haven't put guages back on yet - have to remove airbox to get to fittings). Compressor is engaged and turning. At the firewall is the connection to the evap (easiest place to get at without getting burnt!) and I can feel the lines to and from it. The SMALL line is cold and the larger line is not. In my limted knowledge, that seems backwards to me..

I also see what appears to be an inline filter (about in the center of the image I have uploaded).. Is it a filter?

Trying to determine why the sytem cooled once, the compressor is still turning but today no cool air? The blend door appears to be working (moving the switch changes between defrost, floor and vents..

Thanks for any help anyone can offer. This is my daughters car and she has been without air (Here in MUGGY Memphis, TN) for three weeks now.




http://www.autoacforum.com/forumimages/Monte Carlo Hoses.gif

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True Shade Tree

mk378 on Mon June 28, 2010 5:37 PM

Sounds like most of the refrigerant has leaked out.

GM Tech on Mon June 28, 2010 5:54 PM

Major leak-- did you drop a sealer washer- for the rear of the compressor? Look for oily residue about any a/c connection..
?

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The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

MHardee on Mon June 28, 2010 6:11 PM

Quote
Originally posted by: GM Tech
Major leak-- did you drop a sealer washer- for the rear of the compressor? Look for oily residue about any a/c connection..

?

I am sure the washer was not omitted... How do most A/C shops feel about leak checking for a DIY'r? I don't have electronic sniffer, but, I do have Big Blue and I did use oil with dye..



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True Shade Tree

TRB on Mon June 28, 2010 6:49 PM

Most shops have a diagnostic charge.

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When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

mk378 on Mon June 28, 2010 7:42 PM

This is a big leak. Try putting soapy water on the connections. If it's at a connection you'll find it that way.

Briandl79 on Mon June 28, 2010 8:53 PM

When you pulled the vacuum did it hold it and if so for how long?

MHardee on Mon June 28, 2010 9:47 PM

I pulled a vacuum and held it an hour before starting the charge.. that's what is weird to me.. If it is a big leak, I wouldn't expect it to hold the vacuum...

I will put guages on tomorrow and get back....

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True Shade Tree

TRB on Mon June 28, 2010 9:53 PM

You said you used oil/dye. I would get a black light out tonight and give it a quick check.

-------------------------

When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

GM Tech on Mon June 28, 2010 10:07 PM

Here is a big hint--In my career- I have found over a dozen W-bodies (as is yours) that have condenser out to liquid line connections loose- as in never tightend with a wrench-- from the factory-- Just had another one last weekend-- the connection in general holds- but eventually will leak-- this was on a '98 cutlass supreme--found the leak 12 years later.-(W-body) -- so check that connection- is easiest from underneath the car- use your black light ($12 Autozone) and check that connection.

-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

Briandl79 on Mon June 28, 2010 10:44 PM

On the Cavalier I was working on it held a vacuum for a good hour or so, but by two hours it was already loosing it, from about 30 to about 20HG. This was the belly leaker. Seems pretty simple though, you're loosing refrigerant, just need to find where.

MHardee on Tue June 29, 2010 8:05 AM

Quote
Originally posted by: GM Tech
Here is a big hint--In my career- I have found over a dozen W-bodies (as is yours) that have condenser out to liquid line connections loose- as in never tightend with a wrench-- from the factory-- Just had another one last weekend-- the connection in general holds- but eventually will leak-- this was on a '98 cutlass supreme--found the leak 12 years later.-(W-body) -- so check that connection- is easiest from underneath the car- use your black light ($12 Autozone) and check that connection.

Thanks for the heads up. Had a funeral last evening that took precendence.. Going to get a light tonight (thinking about the Mastercool kit ~$90 - any good?) and I plan on checking every connection, condensor and then figure out how I can see the evap.. I've already experienced the upper intake plenum leak on this car (3.8) and now this. I really do appreciate everyone's help and suggestions..

Will let everyone know what I find (or don't find!)




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True Shade Tree

Briandl79 on Tue June 29, 2010 8:40 AM

Usually on the evap you use UV dye and check the condensate drain. If you have a sniffer you can put it on the vents, that's if you can't smell it already.

How long did it take to leak out?

TRB on Tue June 29, 2010 11:10 AM

This is a pretty good kit for the price.

53351

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When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

Edited: Tue June 29, 2010 at 11:11 AM by TRB

Briandl79 on Tue June 29, 2010 11:27 AM

I just use a cheapie from the parts store, but it looks like the one in the link is a million times brighter, you could probably find leaks in two seconds with that thing, from across the street, lol.

TRB on Tue June 29, 2010 11:54 AM

Quote
Originally posted by: Briandl79
I just use a cheapie from the parts store, but it looks like the one in the link is a million times brighter, you could probably find leaks in two seconds with that thing, from across the street, lol.

Having the proper tools is always a plus!



-------------------------
When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

MHardee on Sat July 03, 2010 2:25 PM

Back again....
Bought UV light and glasses... see oil traces on the compressor (new from ACKITS) and oil at accumulator (Also, new from ACKits).. but I suspect that is remnants from adding oil to the compressor and I added an ounce to the accumulator before installing it. I thought, with the way my luck runs, probably the hardest piece on the car to replace was the evaporator core and of course hat would be the problem, right? Well, I took off the bottom cover and shine my light on the cover and no traces of oil.. Now there is a foam covering on the core and wonder should I go ahead and pull it anyway and look at it with the light?
The driving reason I went to look there is around the back of the motor (from underneath) I shined my UV light around.. The drain is on the firewall and I noticed oil (dye) on a few pieces (exhaust pipe and crossmember)..
Jeezus, this one is driving me a little insane.. It's feasible that IF the new compressor is leaking, it could sling oil back to these areas, but, surely a new compressor wouldn't be leaking that badly. The system holds a charge for less than a day..

Ideas on my new directions? Pull the core and look close? I do not see any dye around condensor or any other fittings..

Thanks for your help...


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True Shade Tree

MHardee on Tue July 27, 2010 10:18 PM

Update:
Been a long couple of weeks. Puchased light and glasses and only dye I could find was 3 fairly small oil spots at evaporator core and replaced it. Ran good for two days and then the car's motor spun rod bearings. (3.8 plastic upper intake plenum got me) ... Pulled motor for rebuild - left AC intact. While motor at re builder noticed compressor leaked what appeared to be a couple of ounces of oil past the front seal. Have contacted Adam at ACKits and am hoping to have another compressor to replace the leaker with this week.. (Adam or someone at ACKITS PLEASE check on this)...

"If not for bad luck...."

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True Shade Tree

Edited: Tue July 27, 2010 at 10:19 PM by MHardee

TRB on Tue July 27, 2010 11:55 PM

Give Adam a call in the morning or send me an email I'll check with him?

-------------------------

When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com