Year: 1994
Make: GMC
Model: Suburban
Here's the issue: under the passenger side, a heater hose connection is leaking, has a special type of quick-connect to one of a pair of metal lines that go to the rear heater. That's where it's leaking; I don't need rear heat. Can I just break off that funky "quick disconnect" and cap off the metal lines somehow?
Edited: Tue June 08, 2010 at 11:44 PM by Cussboy
I think you would be fine unless this is looped system. Not sure on that so best to wait for GMtech or one of the others.
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Yes- however you want to cap it off won't hurt a thing...
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The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......
I am such a stupid !!! Instead of doing this myself, I took it to a shop, and they bypassed both rear and front heater cores. I told the guy, and the paperwork said to bypass the rear heater core, so shop manager will make good, but I need to take it back. Note to self: do it myself !!!! do it myself !!!! do it myself !!!! do it myself !!!! do it myself !!!! do it myself !!!! do it myself !!!! do it myself !!!! do it myself !!!! do it myself !!!! do it myself !!!! do it myself !!!! do it myself !!!! do it myself !!!! do it myself !!!! do it myself !!!! do it myself !!!! do it myself !!!! do it myself !!!! do it myself !!!! do it myself !!!! do it myself !!!! do it myself !!!! do it myself !!!! do it myself !!!! do it myself !!!! do it myself !!!! do it myself !!!! do it myself !!!!
OK, located the right 3/4 inch i.d. U-shaped molded hose for this, and got it. Can bypass under the passenger door after removing the hoses to the rear. Gates #19607, $11.
Edited: Thu June 24, 2010 at 11:04 PM by Cussboy
Also, recently, the front heater core started leaking. Six 7mm head screws hold on a cover under the dash, then one more holds the heater core in place once that's removed. Then the core just comes out. For a GM, it's a straightforward fix.
Use a 1/4 inch drive socket set with 7mm socket to remove those six screws.
So you can get to the core without removing dash?
I recently did my son's 94 S-10 Blazer, and while everything, everyone said dash had to be removed, it did not.
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