Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum (Archives)

Provided by

We've updated our forums!
Click here to visit the new forum

Archive Home

Search Auto AC Forum Archives

How far do I tear down?

jdc25180 on Wed June 02, 2010 8:53 PM User is offline

Year: 2001
Make: Lexus
Model: Is300
Engine Size: 3
Refrigerant Type: r134a
Ambient Temp: 75

After a compressor failure (from what I do not know) I have flushed out my high and low side hoses that were directly connected to my compressor. When flushing out with hecat safe flush there was a lot of black/grey color liquid coming out. No chunks of anything, just looked like soot. Is this normal for a normal flush for a car with 125k miles? Or is the dreaded black death?

I purchased a new refurb compressor, new condenser / dryer, and new evaporator and expansion valve with the thought of just replacing everything. My problem is, the evaporator and expansion valve are almost even with the firewall buried behind everything. I spent two hours getting the dash off, just to find out it will probably be a minimum of another 2 hours to get to the evaporator / expansion valve. I am at the point where I don't really want to tear down the dash anymore as its getting very complicated and I've run out of 4 letter words.

What does everybody think I should do now? Suck it up and spend a couple more hours tearing down everything that was behind the dash just to get to the evap and expansion valve, or put the dash back together and return the evap and expansion valve. Another thought would be to try to flush out the evap and expansion valve while its still in the car, but I have read that this is frowned upon.

Your wisdom is greatly appreciated.

robs on Thu June 03, 2010 12:03 AM User is offlineView users profile

Seeing black/grayish oil means compressor failure. Debris has probably made its home in the entire system. Would recommend replacing most components (compressor, condenser, drier, expansion valve). Evaporator can be flushed with the proper equipment, no canister that you fill with air will flush it properly. If i'm 2 hours deep and need to replace expansion valve and have purchased the evaporator already, i would finish what i started and replace the evap. Click HERE to get the link to AllData that will show you exactly what it is needed to get to the expansion valve/evap in your specific vehicle to better determine if you are ready for such a task.

HECAT on Thu June 03, 2010 6:57 AM User is offline

You will never be successful at flushing through the compressor suction and discharge line after a compressor failure. It can only be done in certain rare situations where a compressor failure has not occurred and requires highly specialized equipment ($$).

The condenser circuit must be isolated and backflushed (or this component must be replaced). The same is true with isolating the evap circuit, and the orifice (TXV or OT) must always be removed for flushing.

Since you have already purchased the components for a total system replacement (the only option to proper flushing); I would get the necessary information (that the pros use) to guide you to complete what you have started. With said information to guide you, it may not be as difficult as it currently seems.


HECAT: You support the Forum when you consider for your a/c parts.


Back to Automotive Air Conditioning Forum

We've updated our forums!
Click here to visit the new forum

Archive Home

Copyright © 2016 Arizona Mobile Air Inc.