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O-ring needed on 2388 compressor? Pages: 12

JerryHughes on Tue April 21, 2009 12:25 AM User is offlineView users profile

Year: 1997
Make: Saturn
Model: SL
Engine Size: 1.9 L
Refrigerant Type: R-134a
Ambient Temp: ?
Pressure Low: ?
Pressure High: ?
Country of Origin: United States

Hello,

Could anyone tell me if I need an o-ring on either end of the small cylinder you see in this photo? http://www.autoacforum.com/forumimages/compressor with cylinder above mating hole
end cap.jpg I'm installing a large, body gasket in the compressor and wonder if that small cylinder, with the small post at one end, needs any type of o-ring on either end? Or would there be any drawings or schematics of a 2388 compressor on site that I could look at? Thank you for any information.

Jerry

JerryHughes on Tue April 21, 2009 12:28 AM User is offlineView users profile

Can't find that picture so I'll try again. Hope this one works. Thanks.
http://www.autoacforum.com/forumimages/compressor with cyliner above mating hole end cap.jpg

Jerry

TRB on Tue April 21, 2009 12:33 AM User is offlineView users profile

Try adding the .jpg to your link.



-------------------------

When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com


Edited: Tue April 21, 2009 at 12:33 AM by TRB

JerryHughes on Tue April 21, 2009 1:00 AM User is offlineView users profile

Quote
Originally posted by: TRB
Try adding the .jpg to your link.

Don't know how to do that.

TRB on Tue April 21, 2009 1:14 AM User is offlineView users profile

Here is what your listed.

http://www.autoacforum.com/forumimages/compressor

Here is what I posted in the image insert icon.

http://www.autoacforum.com/forumimages/compressor.jpg

-------------------------

When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

JerryHughes on Tue April 21, 2009 9:03 AM User is offlineView users profile

Here is the photo in my second try-------
http://www.autoacforum.com/forumimages/compressor with cyliner above mating hole end cap.jpg
I don't see where to go to add that image to this page. Can you steer me in the right direction? The only option I see is the "upload photo" option. I did that and it referred me to the above link. I have no problem opening that link but I don't see how to add the photo to this page. Thanks,
Jerry



Quote
Originally posted by: TRB
Here is what your listed.



http://www.autoacforum.com/forumimages/compressor



Here is what I posted in the image insert icon.



http://www.autoacforum.com/forumimages/compressor.jpg



Edited: Tue April 21, 2009 at 9:07 AM by JerryHughes

GM Tech on Tue April 21, 2009 10:21 AM User is offline

Step 1--- upload photo

step 2 ---copy link--- don't forget to scroll clear across to get the whole link- including the .jpg extension (been there done that mistake)

step 3 - click on Image icon on toolbar above

step 4 - paste in link for photo

step 5 - click "OK"

step 6 - preview your post

step 7- submit your post


Now what o-ring are you asking about-- the photo is of an HT-6 compressor- that has a dust cover insert over the shaft ....is that what you are describing.

-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

Edited: Tue April 21, 2009 at 10:25 AM by GM Tech

JerryHughes on Tue April 21, 2009 10:31 AM User is offlineView users profile

Thank you very much! Hopefully, here is the photo. You see the small cylinder that is sitting on top of the body of the compressor? That fits into the hole nearby. Does anyone know if there is supposed to be an 0-ring on either end of that when assembled? Thanks. Jerry





Quote
Originally posted by: GM Tech
Step 1--- upload photo



step 2 ---copy link--- don't forget to scroll clear across to get the whole link- including the .jpg extension (been there done that mistake)



step 3 - click on Image icon on toolbar above



step 4 - paste in link for photo



step 5 - click "OK"



step 6 - preview your post



step 7- submit your post





Now what o-ring are you asking about-- the photo is of an HT-6 compressor- that has a dust cover insert over the shaft ....is that what you are describing.

GM Tech on Tue April 21, 2009 10:39 AM User is offline

More info needed.. What is type and brand of compressor?

That looks to be a bellows- from a control valve- why is this all torn apart?

Ask whomever took it apart- but I would say the only o-ring is for the cylinder to rear head- and from the looks of the rear head- it is a gasket sealing surface.

-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

TRB on Tue April 21, 2009 10:46 AM User is offlineView users profile

Jerry any chance you can update you email in your profile? The Yahoo email address you have listed bounces with every post as a email address no longer with Yahoo.

-------------------------

When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

JerryHughes on Tue April 21, 2009 11:03 AM User is offlineView users profile

Sorry, updated. Email changed to XXXXXXX . Thank you.
Jerry



Quote
Originally posted by: TRB
Jerry any chance you can update you email in your profile? The Yahoo email address you have listed bounces with every post as a email address no longer with Yahoo.



Edited: Tue April 21, 2009 at 11:11 AM by Automotive Air Conditioning Information Moderator

JerryHughes on Tue April 21, 2009 11:10 AM User is offlineView users profile

I guess it's an HT-6 compressor. It's a Proliance 2388 compressor. The compressor is torn apart because I lost an o-ring inside the compressor and have just received the gasket kit in the mail so I can put it back together. But I'm unsure if there is supposed to be an o-ring at one or both ends of that small cylinder when assembled. When you say "for the cylinder to the rear head" do you mean that an o-ring should go inside the hole shown in that picture, just below where the cylinder is sitting? Thanks,
Jerry



Quote
Originally posted by: GM Tech
More info needed.. What is type and brand of compressor?



That looks to be a bellows- from a control valve- why is this all torn apart?



Ask whomever took it apart- but I would say the only o-ring is for the cylinder to rear head- and from the looks of the rear head- it is a gasket sealing surface.

TRB on Tue April 21, 2009 11:11 AM User is offlineView users profile

Great, I edited your last post so the email address would nto get picked up my the spam bots.

-------------------------

When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

JerryHughes on Tue April 21, 2009 11:13 AM User is offlineView users profile

Thank you!


Quote
Originally posted by: TRB
Great, I edited your last post so the email address would nto get picked up my the spam bots.

JerryHughes on Tue April 21, 2009 12:06 PM User is offlineView users profile

More pics of compressor.


The second picture is the kit for the compressor. (Lots of o-rings) Thanks. Jerry

GM Tech on Tue April 21, 2009 12:57 PM User is offline

No o-ring would be needed in or around the bellows assembly- the bellows operates a needle valve which would open and close based on bellows length- which changes due to suction pressure.....that is definitely not an H-6 series compressor-- never heard of Proliance- sounds like a distributor, not a manufacturer...original manufacturer for a Saturn would have been Deisel Kiki, then Accel as I recall.

-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

JerryHughes on Tue April 21, 2009 1:05 PM User is offlineView users profile

Quote
Originally posted by: GM Tech
No o-ring would be needed in or around the bellows assembly- the bellows operates a needle valve which would open and close based on bellows length- which changes due to suction pressure.....that is definitely not an H-6 series compressor-- never heard of Proliance- sounds like a distributor, not a manufacturer...original manufacturer for a Saturn would have been Deisel Kiki, then Accel as I recall.

That's good news. Now I can put the compressor together and get rolling. Actually, I don't know what kind of compressor it is, was just speculating. Bought the compressor from Pep Boys and is not the original type for my Saturn but it will fit and work. Thank you very, very much for taking the time to answer my question. Now, to install.

Jerry

JerryHughes on Wed April 22, 2009 3:13 PM User is offlineView users profile

System is fully charged. I even tested that with my small, hand held plastic gauge at home. The pressure checked out at 45 P.S.I. which is right on the high side but a good charge. I stood there and watched the garage fill both bottles of R-134a. So it is a complete charge.

The compressor turns on and the clutch engages but no cold air. I think the compressor is having trouble putting out more than 50 p.s.i. pressure on the high side. I'm wondering if that large adjustment slot on the end of the compressor could alter the temperature of the air?? That's the adjustment to the brass cylinder inside the compressor that has the post on one end. Could an adjustment on that make that much of a difference---turning the warm air into cold? Otherwise, I have no idea. Thanks for any suggestions.

Jerry

Chick on Wed April 22, 2009 4:27 PM User is offlineView users profile

That plug on the back is very critical when it comes to adjusting, and I have no idea how. In the past people who have had problems with evap freeze up, found a factory tech sheet on turning it a 1/4 turn or something like that, (but no more) and it is marked "Caution" under high pressure from the factory. The refigerant control valve is in the side of the body as shown on the below pic. My advice is forget it and buy a reman from the guys at Ackits.com. Unles you find someone who rebuilts those compressors. Just my opinion... Hope this helps...





96 Saturn AC parts

-------------------------
Chick
Email: Chick

---------------------------------------------

Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

Chick on Wed April 22, 2009 4:44 PM User is offlineView users profile

I found the post with the GM service bulletin on evap freeze, please read page two carefully, that set screw can come out and cause injury to the person working on it.. Thanks JJM (Joe) for posting that service bulletin..Hope this helps..

-------------------------
Chick
Email: Chick

---------------------------------------------

Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

JerryHughes on Wed April 22, 2009 9:42 PM User is offlineView users profile

Quote
Originally posted by: Chick
I found the post with the GM service bulletin on evap freeze, please read page two carefully, that set screw can come out and cause injury to the person working on it.. Thanks JJM (Joe) for posting that service bulletin..Hope this helps..

Thanks, Chick, for that information. That info refers to the adjustment/set screw on the compressor and that is what I was wondering about. However, it suggested that any improvement would be realized from the low pressure side. I am pretty sure I am having trouble with the high pressure side of the compressor. Again, I was told that the high side couldn't get past 50 p.s.i. or close to that. I'm wondering if adjusting that set screw (clockwise 1/8 turn at a time only) would help the high side gain pressure? And a special thanks for the the bulletin warning about turning that set screw counter-clockwise. Will not do.

If I don't get any more info on the possible problems with my system or the compressor, I will let the car warm up to operating temperature then start adjusting the set screw, clockwise and see if any improvement is realized. Thank you!

Jerry

JerryHughes on Fri April 24, 2009 11:30 PM User is offlineView users profile

Well, I thought the problem might have started to be solved because when I turned the set screw out to 3 1/4 turns, I started getting "cool" air out of the vents!!!!!!!!!!! I ran inside and got my thermometer and stuck it into the vent and the inside car temp, at the vent, dropped from the 70's into the low 60's. Encouraged by that I turned the set screw out to a total of 4 1/4 turns but there was no improvement and in fact, the temp started to rise.

So I got my little pressure gauge out and right after filling at the garage, the gauge read on the high side of fill. But now, there was next to nothing in the system. It had leaked out. I was thinking that it leaked out all of a sudden because I turned the set screw out too far but there is no evidence of fluid at that screw but under the large body gasket that I changed, it was wet with "greenish-colored" fluid. And I have no evidence of this but it just seemed that now that the compressor seemed to be working, all heck broke loose, as far as the R-134a level was concerned. I should have been checking that pressure as I went along but as I noted earlier, before the compressor was "working" I was losing fluid through the body gasket.

I emailed Proliance, the company that made the compressor to ask if the torque specs, for the large body gasket, they gave me were correct at 36 to 48 in. lbs. Seems awfully low to me and would explain the leakage at the body gasket.

JerryHughes on Sat April 25, 2009 6:01 PM User is offlineView users profile

Well, the compressor is now shot. I tried injecting more R-134a into the system and it steadily built up. About 1 1/2 cans brought the pressure up to 45psi (on my low port gauge---unreliable I know) so I stopped there. I turned the set screw back to the 3 1/4 limit but no cool air. I turned the set screw out to 4 full turns and still nothing-------all the while a "buzzing" was coming from the compressor. Ended up turning out 4 1/2 turns and still no cool air. It was at that moment that I heard something "snap" inside the compressor and watched my little hand pressure gauge drop in pressure like a rock!

Still no cool air but the compressor is still running. I hope that means that there was no "shrapnel" expelled into the car's A/C system! Will look for a new compressor. Do you think I need to flush the system of debris or just hook up a new compressor??

UPDATE: Went back out to the car, just in case, after the "snap" something inside the compressor snapped into place and I was now getting cool air. Long shot I know. Turned the compressor on and all of a sudden "BANG!" All the fluid was escaping through the other, large body gasket. I lost everything in about 10 seconds. Just a little surprised here. Now, since the pressure was too great and the pressure was relieved through a large body gasket, now should I have the system flushed before installing the new compressor? Whew!

Question is---If there is no debris in the compressor oil, will all I have to do is replace the compressor? Thanks for any info. Very much appreciated.

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