Year: 1997
Make: Saturn
Model: SL
Engine Size: 1.9 L
Refrigerant Type: R-134a
Ambient Temp: ?
Pressure Low: ?
Pressure High: ?
Country of Origin: United States
Hello,
Could anyone tell me if I need an o-ring on either end of the small cylinder you see in this photo? http://www.autoacforum.com/forumimages/compressor with cylinder above mating hole
end cap.jpg I'm installing a large, body gasket in the compressor and wonder if that small cylinder, with the small post at one end, needs any type of o-ring on either end? Or would there be any drawings or schematics of a 2388 compressor on site that I could look at? Thank you for any information.
Jerry
Can't find that picture so I'll try again. Hope this one works. Thanks.
http://www.autoacforum.com/forumimages/compressor with cyliner above mating hole end cap.jpg
Jerry
Try adding the .jpg to your link.
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Here is what your listed.
http://www.autoacforum.com/forumimages/compressor
Here is what I posted in the image insert icon.
http://www.autoacforum.com/forumimages/compressor.jpg
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Here is the photo in my second try-------
http://www.autoacforum.com/forumimages/compressor with cyliner above mating hole end cap.jpg
I don't see where to go to add that image to this page. Can you steer me in the right direction? The only option I see is the "upload photo" option. I did that and it referred me to the above link. I have no problem opening that link but I don't see how to add the photo to this page. Thanks,
Jerry
Step 1--- upload photo
step 2 ---copy link--- don't forget to scroll clear across to get the whole link- including the .jpg extension (been there done that mistake)
step 3 - click on Image icon on toolbar above
step 4 - paste in link for photo
step 5 - click "OK"
step 6 - preview your post
step 7- submit your post
Now what o-ring are you asking about-- the photo is of an HT-6 compressor- that has a dust cover insert over the shaft ....is that what you are describing.
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The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......
Edited: Tue April 21, 2009 at 10:25 AM by GM Tech
Thank you very much! Hopefully, here is the photo. You see the small cylinder that is sitting on top of the body of the compressor? That fits into the hole nearby. Does anyone know if there is supposed to be an 0-ring on either end of that when assembled? Thanks. Jerry
More info needed.. What is type and brand of compressor?
That looks to be a bellows- from a control valve- why is this all torn apart?
Ask whomever took it apart- but I would say the only o-ring is for the cylinder to rear head- and from the looks of the rear head- it is a gasket sealing surface.
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The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......
Jerry any chance you can update you email in your profile? The Yahoo email address you have listed bounces with every post as a email address no longer with Yahoo.
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Sorry, updated. Email changed to XXXXXXX . Thank you.
Jerry
I guess it's an HT-6 compressor. It's a Proliance 2388 compressor. The compressor is torn apart because I lost an o-ring inside the compressor and have just received the gasket kit in the mail so I can put it back together. But I'm unsure if there is supposed to be an o-ring at one or both ends of that small cylinder when assembled. When you say "for the cylinder to the rear head" do you mean that an o-ring should go inside the hole shown in that picture, just below where the cylinder is sitting? Thanks,
Jerry
Great, I edited your last post so the email address would nto get picked up my the spam bots.
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Thank you!
More pics of compressor.
The second picture is the kit for the compressor. (Lots of o-rings) Thanks. Jerry
No o-ring would be needed in or around the bellows assembly- the bellows operates a needle valve which would open and close based on bellows length- which changes due to suction pressure.....that is definitely not an H-6 series compressor-- never heard of Proliance- sounds like a distributor, not a manufacturer...original manufacturer for a Saturn would have been Deisel Kiki, then Accel as I recall.
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The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......
System is fully charged. I even tested that with my small, hand held plastic gauge at home. The pressure checked out at 45 P.S.I. which is right on the high side but a good charge. I stood there and watched the garage fill both bottles of R-134a. So it is a complete charge.
The compressor turns on and the clutch engages but no cold air. I think the compressor is having trouble putting out more than 50 p.s.i. pressure on the high side. I'm wondering if that large adjustment slot on the end of the compressor could alter the temperature of the air?? That's the adjustment to the brass cylinder inside the compressor that has the post on one end. Could an adjustment on that make that much of a difference---turning the warm air into cold? Otherwise, I have no idea. Thanks for any suggestions.
Jerry
That plug on the back is very critical when it comes to adjusting, and I have no idea how. In the past people who have had problems with evap freeze up, found a factory tech sheet on turning it a 1/4 turn or something like that, (but no more) and it is marked "Caution" under high pressure from the factory. The refigerant control valve is in the side of the body as shown on the below pic. My advice is forget it and buy a reman from the guys at Ackits.com. Unles you find someone who rebuilts those compressors. Just my opinion... Hope this helps...
96 Saturn AC parts
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Chick
Email: Chick
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Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose
I found the post with the GM service bulletin on evap freeze, please read page two carefully, that set screw can come out and cause injury to the person working on it.. Thanks JJM (Joe) for posting that service bulletin..Hope this helps..
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Chick
Email: Chick
---------------------------------------------
Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose
Well, I thought the problem might have started to be solved because when I turned the set screw out to 3 1/4 turns, I started getting "cool" air out of the vents!!!!!!!!!!! I ran inside and got my thermometer and stuck it into the vent and the inside car temp, at the vent, dropped from the 70's into the low 60's. Encouraged by that I turned the set screw out to a total of 4 1/4 turns but there was no improvement and in fact, the temp started to rise.
So I got my little pressure gauge out and right after filling at the garage, the gauge read on the high side of fill. But now, there was next to nothing in the system. It had leaked out. I was thinking that it leaked out all of a sudden because I turned the set screw out too far but there is no evidence of fluid at that screw but under the large body gasket that I changed, it was wet with "greenish-colored" fluid. And I have no evidence of this but it just seemed that now that the compressor seemed to be working, all heck broke loose, as far as the R-134a level was concerned. I should have been checking that pressure as I went along but as I noted earlier, before the compressor was "working" I was losing fluid through the body gasket.
I emailed Proliance, the company that made the compressor to ask if the torque specs, for the large body gasket, they gave me were correct at 36 to 48 in. lbs. Seems awfully low to me and would explain the leakage at the body gasket.
Well, the compressor is now shot. I tried injecting more R-134a into the system and it steadily built up. About 1 1/2 cans brought the pressure up to 45psi (on my low port gauge---unreliable I know) so I stopped there. I turned the set screw back to the 3 1/4 limit but no cool air. I turned the set screw out to 4 full turns and still nothing-------all the while a "buzzing" was coming from the compressor. Ended up turning out 4 1/2 turns and still no cool air. It was at that moment that I heard something "snap" inside the compressor and watched my little hand pressure gauge drop in pressure like a rock!
Still no cool air but the compressor is still running. I hope that means that there was no "shrapnel" expelled into the car's A/C system! Will look for a new compressor. Do you think I need to flush the system of debris or just hook up a new compressor??
UPDATE: Went back out to the car, just in case, after the "snap" something inside the compressor snapped into place and I was now getting cool air. Long shot I know. Turned the compressor on and all of a sudden "BANG!" All the fluid was escaping through the other, large body gasket. I lost everything in about 10 seconds. Just a little surprised here. Now, since the pressure was too great and the pressure was relieved through a large body gasket, now should I have the system flushed before installing the new compressor? Whew!
Question is---If there is no debris in the compressor oil, will all I have to do is replace the compressor? Thanks for any info. Very much appreciated.
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