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Job completed...almost

alchemist_bobtilton on Sat June 28, 2008 7:01 PM User is offline

Year: 1998
Make: Chevy
Model: Suburban
Engine Size: 5.7L
Refrigerant Type: 134a
Ambient Temp: 100
Pressure Low: 45
Pressure High: 275
Country of Origin: United States

Finished the job in 100 degree weather. New accumulator, o-tube, and compressor (Sanden). Put 60 mL oil in the compressor, per GM specs, and 105 mL in the new accumulator, also per spec. I charged in 1.81 kg by weight, into the system, after pulling good vacuum for 45 minutes. The system didn't seem to get that cold (I was running both front and rear), but when I switched off the rear, the front really cooled down nice. Other than my vent air flow being a little weak, it felt good. Also, for some reason, I was not making water (at either evaporator), although I was running in recirc mode.

Two questions:

1. Any reason that running the rear makes the system not cool as well?

2. When I pulled the high side hose off the Acme fitting at the compressor, the damn thing kept leaking (wasn't last year, when system was working, but it is now). Managed to cap it off well, but I'm worried about it. I know there's a Shrader core down in there. I'm going to try, with the core tool, to loosen and tighten a few times (not back it out completely), but short of that working, can I evacuate the system and pull the core out?


Chick on Sat June 28, 2008 7:22 PM User is offlineView users profile

Not sure if your high side has the "teflon button" or a regular shrader valve. If it has the button, the whole service port needs to be changed, if a regular valve stem, then that can be changed like any other, of course the system must be empty either way. The cap is the primary seal on those ports, so make sure the rubber gasket is in it..Hope this helps..

PS: It will only sweat if the humidity is high, check the line going back to the compressor, it should be cold all the way. You could be undercharged a bit, the reason it's colder with just the front air on is you're splitting your charge.. You also need to check the performance of the Clutch fan..Very important to have good air flow.. Should be better going down the road if your fan is weak..Let us know..

Email: Chick


Freedoms just another word for nothing left to lose

GM Tech on Sat June 28, 2008 10:25 PM User is offline

High side is the button type-- no schrader to ttry to tighten---I agree with Chick- a good cap with rubber will seal it off- but I have seen them with holes in the center top as well---

The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

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