Engine Size: 3.2L
Refrigerant Type: R134a
Ambient Temp: 105
Pressure Low: NA
Pressure High: NA
Okay guys I need a some help. I have purchased your compressor kit and condenser and I am to the point of flushing the system. I have even dug into the system far enough to remove the TXV and replace it. Is there a way to flush the system with the orifice in place? My orifice is made into the tube, so if not I certainly don't see a way to flush using the hoses.
Should I even be significantly worried about a flush of the hoses and tubing as everything I have disassembled is clean and pretty. The oil looks like fresh honey...very clean and I have not found any contamination or evidence of it anywhere. I think this is truly a "belly leaker" from the compressor only, but I want to do my due diligence.
Also, I have the service manual for the car and it is saying to measure the oil drained from the old compressor and subtract that from 120ml and then drain that amount out of the new compressor. However, I also replaced the condenser so my thought is to leave most of the oil in the compressor because the condenser will be dry.
Anyway, I would sure appreciate any thoughts because I am in no way an expert here.
Edited: Fri July 12, 2013 at 1:26 PM by cody2979
Flushing is required when metal contamination, dirty oil, oil overcharge, additive contamination evidence is found, and when we just don't know what we have. It takes everything back to a clean and dry starting point, so we know where we are and what we have.
Oil balancing (installing new part and new oil for that part only) is the OE way and is based upon the assumption that the system is virgin (untouched). When to flush and when not to is a judgement call. You may or may not get away without flushing this system as long as your best guess ends up close to the right amount of oil in the system.
Using a non-refrigerant "traditional" flush solvent thru the orifice should not be done. You can get the flush thru the orifice but cannot get sustained velocity thru the orifice to properly perform the drying process; therefore you leave way too much solvent in the system, which dilutes the oil and promotes a rapid lack of lube type failure.
To flush your evap circuit, we would remove the old TXV, drill it out to be a flow thru adapter, reinstall it to use the line sets to flush and dry out the evap circuit; then remove the drilled TXV and install the new one. Sometimes this can be a real pain (I did not design the car).
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