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Retrofit advice

Anonymous on Wed April 16, 2003 9:16 PM User is offline

Year: 1979
Make: Ford
Model: T-Bird
Engine Size: 351W
Refrigerant Type: R134
Ambient Temp: N/A
Pressure Low: N/A
Pressure High: N/A

I converted my 79 T-Bird last spring with one of those kits you get at the local parts store. It worked great. AC performed well. I rebuilt the engine this winter and just layed the AC aside without breaking a seal. I just got the car back on the road a few weeks ago and when the weather heated up the AC was still working good. Until today. I failed to bolt the top of the condenser back in place when I reinstalled the engine and it rubbed against the radiator and now there is a hole in one of the coils out at the end. It should be easy enough to repair (they can be repaired can't they?). I found this site after I did the conversion last year and thus I have become aware that there is more to retrofitting than what is included in that box you get at the local parts store. My dilema is this: Since my system is now totally empty due to the leak how much money do I need to throw in this system since it was working great before? I don't want to spend money unnecessarily but on the other hand I want to do it right. From what I have gathered on this site the whole hog shopping list would include: R134 compatible accumulator, hi/lo cutoff switch, new R134 compatible hoses. How about the compressor? Does this OEM compresser hold up well under R134? Anything I have omiited? Suggestions please.
Thanks,
Kywookie

TRB on Wed April 16, 2003 9:27 PM User is offlineView users profile

Repair the condenser, add an ounce or two of POE oil and recharge the system. While the system is down I would add a HPCO switch which is required by law. Main problem with the wal-mart kits is poor instructions and cheap components.

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mk378 on Thu February 05, 2009 11:58 AM User is offline

You should replace the accumulator/drier because when there's a hole in a line, a lot of water will get in and saturate the desiccant in the accumulator making it useless to remove more moisture. The accumulator is a one-use item like an oil filter. After repairing the leak, pull a vacuum for a long time to try and dry the lines out and make sure it doesn't leak. Then replace the accumulator, pull vacuum again, and charge.

JACK ADAMS on Thu February 05, 2009 3:33 PM User is offline

To add to the advice of others, the compressor is a York or Tecumseh depending if it was a factory a/c car or dealer installed a/c.

Your question about “if the compressor is compatible with 134a refrigerant?” If the compressor has been replaced with a New or Remanufactured in the past five years it may be R-12 and or 134a compatible.

The hoses, expansion valve as well as the drier all should be changed when doing a 134a conversion for 134a compatibility. 134a refrigerant uses a barrier style hose and a drier with XH-7 desiccant. The expansion valve for 134a refrigerant is charged with a different gas in the capillary tube to meter for that refrigerant.

Adding a HPOS will be an important part of a 134a system, this will protect to system from excessive head pressure on the Discharge side as well as a Low refrigerant cut out.

A good Flushing of the Evaporator and condenser to remove the old mineral oil and any other contaminations will be a requirement. 134a uses a POE or PAG oil.

Hope this helps and good luck with your repair…..

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