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AC Rebuild 1983 Ford F150

Resto on Mon February 15, 2016 11:31 PM User is offlineView users profile

Year: 1983
Make: Ford
Model: F150
Engine Size: 302 V8
Refrigerant Type: TBD
Ambient Temp: TBD
Pressure Low: TBD
Pressure High: TBD
Country of Origin: United States

Brand new member here! I joined up since I'm looking to resurrect the factory AC system on my son's 1983 F150 with a 302 v8 5.0. The truck has FACTORY INSTALLED AC but is presently setup for R12 and I want to convert it over to R134a. I'm planning on buying these new parts: main low side suction hose to compressor, main high side discharge hose to condenser, replacement compressor, accumulator, condenser and orifice tube.

Here's an initial question list:

Can I flush the existing evaporator core and reuse - does the expansion valve need to be removed for flushing?
Should I replace the expansion valve? Where can I find one for my r134a conversion / stock evaporator?
What's a great synthetic compressor oil to use that could improve efficiency?
Will this vacuum pump do the job: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-cfm-two-stage-vacuum-pump-61176.html
Any compressor recommendations?
Trying to find good source for a NON-OE condenser - heard the original OE style large tube diameter will not work well with the r134a.
Would you recommend adding leak detection dye to the system during its first fill?



Thanks!

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83 Ford F150 5.0 V8 - needs major ac repair

mk378 on Tue February 16, 2016 9:53 AM User is offline

If this truck has been driving around for years with hoses missing / lines open you might consider replacing everything including evaporator. The evaporator may have stuff in it that is hard to remove. That system uses an orifice tube to do the expansion instead of a valve. Use a double-end-capped PAG oil. You can buy such oil from the site sponsor. It also has UV dye already mixed in. Yes I would recommend keeping the proper amount of dye in your system to make finding any future leaks easier. It doesn't hurt anything.

Resto on Tue February 16, 2016 9:07 PM User is offlineView users profile

Quote
Originally posted by: mk378
If this truck has been driving around for years with hoses missing / lines open you might consider replacing everything including evaporator. The evaporator may have stuff in it that is hard to remove. That system uses an orifice tube to do the expansion instead of a valve. Use a double-end-capped PAG oil. You can buy such oil from the site sponsor. It also has UV dye already mixed in. Yes I would recommend keeping the proper amount of dye in your system to make finding any future leaks easier. It doesn't hurt anything.

I appreciate the information! Should I find a condenser that has smaller tubes than the large tube factory OE replacement. Would the system function better with the small tube type? Where or how would I go about finding such a condenser?

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83 Ford F150 5.0 V8 - needs major ac repair

Resto on Wed February 17, 2016 7:39 PM User is offlineView users profile

Any thoughts? I did notice this site has everything I'd probably need and I'll add at some of the best prices I've seen! Would I be wasting time trying to locate a non OE replacement condenser? I guess that could throw off the amount of r134a to charge the system if I only place of charge of 80% of what r12 would call for. With an r12 type condenser would the system loose a very noticeable amount of cooling? If yes could a high performance oil as you mentioned compensate?

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83 Ford F150 5.0 V8 - needs major ac repair

TRB on Thu February 18, 2016 3:14 PM User is offlineView users profile

Do you want a drop in replacement condenser? If not and can have some hoses made up. Go with the universal PF condenser to achieve the best performance.

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Resto on Sun February 21, 2016 9:48 PM User is offlineView users profile

If I were to replace the system with all OEM parts and stay with R12 is there an oil that I could replace the mineral with? It would need to be compatible with mineral oil since the OE compressor would probably be filled with mineral oil.

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83 Ford F150 5.0 V8 - needs major ac repair

mk378 on Wed February 24, 2016 3:59 PM User is offline

There isn't any magic special oil that increases performance. There are a lot of such things advertised, but it's all hype.

Putting Ester oil in a conversion is popular because it offers the flexibility to change back to R-12 without changing the oil.

Nearly all old trucks will benefit from changing the fan clutch. They get "tired" and the fan turns too slow. It takes a lot more air for good A/C performance than it does to keep the engine from overheating.

Resto on Thu February 25, 2016 9:46 PM User is offlineView users profile

All factory style replacement components, r12, ester oil and a new fan clutch - what do you guys think?

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83 Ford F150 5.0 V8 - needs major ac repair

Dougflas on Fri February 26, 2016 10:55 AM User is offline

Sounds like you will be cold in that vehicle.

Resto on Mon March 07, 2016 9:43 PM User is offlineView users profile

Manifold question... with running r12 could I utilize a 4 way manifold (Red, Black, Yellow, Blue) with a dedicated vacuum line (black) and a dedicated charging line (yellow) be better than the 3 way? I've seen many 4 way setups out there but none really specify r12.

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83 Ford F150 5.0 V8 - needs major ac repair

Dougflas on Tue March 08, 2016 1:14 PM User is offline

A 4 hose set up eliminates the chance of air/moisture entering the system. If you properly purge your hoses, a 3 hose set up will work just fine.

TRB on Tue March 08, 2016 3:39 PM User is offlineView users profile

I've never need a 4 hose gauge set. But if you have one it does allow for a lesser chance of air getting in the system.

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When considering your next auto A/C purchase, please consider the site that supports you: ACkits.com
Contact: ACKits.com

mk378 on Tue March 08, 2016 5:36 PM User is offline

The fittings on older R-12 cars(*) are the same as used on R-12/R-22 stationary HVAC equipment, so manifolds and hoses are easy to find in 4-valve. Like others said it really isn't necessary for occasional use though.

* In the mid to late 1980's, car makers went to using a smaller port on the high side rather than having both low and high the same size. This is because amateur mechanics were hooking cans of R-12 to the high side by mistake and having the can explode. An adapter is required for those "idiot proofed" cars.

Resto on Tue March 08, 2016 6:56 PM User is offlineView users profile

Once I purchase a manifold set do I also need to purchase a valve to attach it to the old school 14 oz. r12 can? Awesome information here Thanks Ahead!!!

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83 Ford F150 5.0 V8 - needs major ac repair

Dougflas on Wed March 09, 2016 5:34 PM User is offline

you will need a tapping valve for the 14 oz cans.

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