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archie on Wed December 09, 2015 10:10 PM User is offline

Year: 1990
Make: chevy
Model: astro
Engine Size: 4.3l
Refrigerant Type: r134a
Country of Origin: United States

GM inline filter part #15-1760/52474434-----bought this filter on ebay. is this just a filter or does it have an orifice tube in it? the orientation arrow sticker has come off, how is it installed on the line? does the screen point to the gas flow? two o rings, two end nuts and two compression washers. how are they installed? lastly, what is the feeling amonst the pros on installing in line filters? thanks.

archie on Fri December 25, 2015 4:34 PM User is offline

hi, gm tech. need your input.

archie on Wed December 30, 2015 6:31 PM User is offline

hi. well, I tried to install the filter on the liquid line. disaster, ruined the line. anyone know where I can get a liquid line. woe is me.

GM Tech on Wed December 30, 2015 7:54 PM User is offline

I buy 3/8 inch aluminum tubing from Grainger 6 ft long tubes and then bend and form my own- and use swageloks to piece together, whenever I can't find the tube at a parts house.

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The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

archie on Wed December 30, 2015 10:23 PM User is offline

do you need special equipment to do this?

GM Tech on Thu December 31, 2015 9:34 AM User is offline

no, two wrenches, a plumber's pipe cutter, and a bending tool if needed

-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

archie on Thu December 31, 2015 11:07 AM User is offline

this is probably a stupid question. what size swageloks and fitting type do I need for 3/8" tubing?

GM Tech on Thu December 31, 2015 5:00 PM User is offline

3/8 aluminum swageloks - I buy them bulk on Ebay- 25 at a time or so...

-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

archie on Thu December 31, 2015 5:22 PM User is offline

thanks I just might try making the hi side line. thanks.

archie on Thu December 31, 2015 5:28 PM User is offline

gm tech, can you put up a picture of the fitting? it has to have a female screw on to male.

archie on Sat January 02, 2016 1:42 AM User is offline

better yet. a part number.

GM Tech on Sat January 02, 2016 10:36 AM User is offline

Not sure why you are concerned about screw-on to male--- just cut the line at a point where it runs straight and use the unions below.

Why not just go to their website....a simple google of swagelok yields...

Part number is A-600-6 A stands for aluminum they are all over e-bay

3/8 Swagelok aluminum union from their website


http://www.autoacforum.com/forumimages/swagelok A-600-6.jpg

-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

Edited: Sat January 02, 2016 at 10:44 AM by GM Tech

archie on Sat January 02, 2016 12:39 PM User is offline

I was thinking of making a whole new line, not using the old one. so I would need to connect the condenser output and the orifice tube input. both of these have male threads on them. thanks for the info.

GM Tech on Sat January 02, 2016 2:25 PM User is offline

Those lines are also english male threads- they converted to metric threads in '94 MY.

Good luck getting the connections apart- another reason to splice- Those old lines are subject to galvanic corrosion- and can pull the threads right off your condenser or the OT connection.

-------------------------
The number one A/C diagnostic tool there is- is to know how much refrigerant is in the system- this can only be done by recovering and weighing the refrigerant!!
Just a thought.... 65% of A/C failures in my 3200 car diagnostic database (GM vehicles) are due to loss of refrigerant due to a leak......

Edited: Sat January 02, 2016 at 2:27 PM by GM Tech

archie on Sun January 03, 2016 9:28 AM User is offline

yes, that's a very valid point. I think splice is the way to go. btw I couldn't find aluminum swageloks on ebay, only stainless?

mk378 on Sun January 03, 2016 5:09 PM User is offline

Stainless body with aluminum ferrules would be OK, but I doubt that is a standard product. Do not use stainless ferrules on aluminum, the ferrules must be the same or softer metal than the tube for a reliable seal.

archie on Sun January 03, 2016 8:50 PM User is offline

can you buy just the ferrules? if so, where.

mk378 on Sun January 03, 2016 9:03 PM User is offline

Yes the ferrules are sold separately though you may need to buy 10 sets at a time (about $1.50 per set). Swagelok has a network of official distributors if you can't find it on fly-by-night sources.

archie on Mon January 04, 2016 5:14 AM User is offline

thanks for the info. i'am going to do a google search for them.

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